Ski resorts are not noted for excellence in the culinary arts, but Park City provides a pleasing exception to the general rule.
In addition to the Sundance Film Festival, Robert Redford has given Park City a delightful restaurant, Zoom, set within the atmospheric old Union Pacific station. Chef Roger Laws’ American Continental menu is casual, but seriously good. We let our lunchtime waitress talk us into a starter of grilled summer squash — not usually a pulse-quickener — with black pepper-sage risotto cakes and heirloom tomatoes. It was utterly delicious, all the elements combining to make a dish for the vegetarian annals. Afterward, the sandwich of pulled pork, given new purpose in life with a chipotle barbecue sauce, was every-bite gratifying, as was the zesty-not-sweet crisp coleslaw. Tel. (435) 649-9108.
Although I did not stay at the Stein Eriksen Lodge on this visit, I made a point of revisiting its charming Glitretind Restaurant, which has long been a Harper favorite. It remains supremely warm and congenial, with panoramic views, superb food and first-class service. Executive Chef Zane Holmquist presents an exceptionally imaginative menu. I particularly enjoyed an appetizer of seared sea scallops served with celery root purée. My delicious main course was the roasted poulet rouge chicken — a slightly smaller breed than the usual — that came with crisp skin and a flavorful molasses jus, plus sides of creamed corn and al dente farm vegetables. During the meal, I had a lively and fascinating discussion with the talented sommelier, Cara Schwindt, who oversees the superb 10,000-bottle cellar. Tel. (435) 645-6455.
Sometimes it’s hard to work up enthusiasm for yet another Italian restaurant. But Grappa proved to be a dynamic, multi-level space — extending to the outdoors when weather permits — with delicious food and engaging service. The best starter was a generous portion of perfectly cooked ravioli with an unusual and tasty filling of sweet corn and roasted pork, accented with fresh mint. A main course, veal Milanese, is often a limp, disheartening dish. On this occasion, however, it was wonderfully moist inside its crisp bread coating, and was complemented by a luscious Marsala jus, plus a hearty salad of potatoes, prosciutto and apples. Tel. (435) 645-0636.
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