Maine Wine Discoveries

Cellardoor Winery

Cellardoor Winery, Copyright Bangor Daily News / Bridget Brown

My recent trip to Maine, as detailed in this month’s Hideaway Report, certainly rewarded my search for interesting wines and spirits.

An easy drive from Camden in Lincolnville, Cellardoor Winery (367 Youngtown Road; Tel. (207) 763-4478) rivals some facilities I’ve seen in Napa, with a barn-like tasting room filled with books and wine-related items for sale, and a judicious selection of sandwiches and salads that you can take to the outside deck for the fine views of the vineyards.

Two favorites from my tasting:  The Triology Blanc, an appealing dry white made from a blend of Rhône varietals Roussanne, Viognier and Marsanne; and the Petit Verdot, a pleasing red made from Petit Verdot given a bracing boost  from the addition of Mourvèdre.

Farther inland in Union, Sweetgrass Farm Winery & Distillery (347 Carroll Road; Tel. (207) 785-3024) makes fruit-based wines that I found interesting, if not compelling.  But its Back River gin won me over completely, being a finely crafted spirit with just the right notes of juniper and herbs.

En route from Camden down to Kennebunkport, we couldn’t resist the small roadside tasting room of Oyster River Winegrowers (Route 1 at 131 North in Thomaston; Tel. (207) 354-7177).  A new venture, it is waiting for its vineyards to mature but is making wines from purchased grapes in the interim, with very promising results. We went home with a bottle each of the tasty, well-balanced Village Red and the very respectable Merlot, which could stand up to many well-established competitors.

-A.H.

 

Happy Mother’s Day!

 

Famiglia Pizzinini of Rosa Alpina

The Pizzinini Family of Rosa Alpina

Rather than deluge you with brunch offers, we thought we’d take a moment to salute a few Harper-recommended properties that are owned or managed by mothers.

This is most certainly a very incomplete list; please feel free to add more suggestions in the comments section!

A very happy mother’s day to the following:

Hotel & Spa Rosa Alpina, The Dolomites (The Pizzinini Family is pictured above).

Nimmo Bay Resort, British Columbia.

 Hotel de Toiras, France (their new sister property Villa Clarisse, is named after the owner’s daughter!)

The Peninsula House, Dominican Republic

Wedgewood Hotel & Spa, Vancouver

Cashel House Hotel, Galway

El Castell de Ciutat, Catalonia

Le Mas de Peint, Arles

Bauer Palladio Hotel & Spa, Venice

Luxury Travel News: May 11th, 2012

 

The St. Regis Deer Valley

The St. Regis Deer Valley

As compiled from Andrew Harper’s twitter feed, @HarperTravel. Please note that news about upcoming properties does not constitute endorsement from Andrew Harper.

St. Regis Deer Valley for hosting 50 family members of deployed soldiers (including 30 mothers) this Sunday: http://goo.gl/xClPt

Four Seasons Pudong, Shanghai set to open later this year: http://goo.gl/wI4RI

A very helpful safari packing list from Singita: http://goo.gl/9Q7Lf

Peninsula is looking at India: http://goo.gl/9bALF

Dunton Hot Springs has a new culinary team: http://ow.ly/aNPu2

Complete list of Beard Foundation winners (rising star Christina Tosi will be visiting Blackberry Farm soon): http://goo.gl/I8YNt

A Weekend at The Lowell: Recommendations from the Chef Concierge: http://goo.gl/WwkSJ

10 Little-Known Paris Gems: http://goo.gl/Yn4uG

The new Andrew Harper Paris app: http://goo.gl/njfTF

No new golf course in Pebble Peach truce, but lots of other development: http://goo.gl/0qqxt

Ritz-Carlton Los Angeles has a new rooftop cocktail bar: http://goo.gl/1VkKg

Kahala Resort is celebrating Julia Child’s 100th birthday: http://ow.ly/aL2So

Peninsula Hong Kong has their own suite at HKG airport: http://goo.gl/46WeP

Happy 100th to the Beverly Hills Hotel (which wasn’t painted pink until 1948!): http://goo.gl/V0fgM

4,000sq ft Amangani home up for sale: http://goo.gl/IKBcF

Four Seasons looking to return to the Bahamas with a new resort in Eleuthera: http://ow.ly/aL2op

My thoughts on the Global Entry Program, which I recommend. AH. http://ow.ly/aKOD4

Family-Friendly Cavallo Point Lodge, Sausalito

Cavallo Point Lodge

Cavallo Point Lodge

Cavallo Point Lodge

Cavallo Point Lodge

Cavallo Point Lodge

Cavallo Point Lodge

Cavallo Point Lodge

Cavallo Point Lodge

Cavallo Point Lodge

Cavallo Point Lodge

Cavallo Point Lodge

Cavallo Point Lodge hides in plain sight; it sits squarely in the middle of a happily buzzing national park with glorious San Francisco views, yet manages to feel very peaceful and removed. The property occupies a serene warren of former officers’ quarters at the foot of the Golden Gate Bridge, and is managed as a joint venture between the park and Passport Resorts, which also runs Post Ranch Inn and Sea Ranch Lodge.

Murray Circle was packed for lunch on a recent Sunday afternoon, but I was happy to sit at the counter with their fancy version of fish and chips (Lagunitas-battered rock cod) and a crisp glass of Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc. Though the contemporary lodgings here have the best bridge views, I opted to stay in one of the officers’ residences on the parade ground. It was a relaxing, light-filled suite with vintage flourishes and a particularly comfortable leather reading chair. I woke to the mournful horns of passing cargo ships before enjoying an early morning soak in the spa.

Owing to its extraordinary location, Cavallo Point is probably my most family-friendly recommended property in the Bay Area. There is plenty here for kids to enjoy: kite-flying on the parade ground, exploring the old battery at Horseshoe Bay or hiking the Chapel Steps Trail, an easy-to-moderate venture that affords spectacular views of the bridge (which also happens to be celebrating its 75th birthday this year). The property is also steps away from the superlative Bay Area Discovery Museum, a sprawling compound of art studios, playgrounds and nature exhibits.

-A.H. 

Slideshow: Ten Little-Known Treasures of Paris

Musee Carnavalet

Musée Carnavalet

A Huffington Post Travel slideshow in support of the new Andrew Harper’s Paris app. Enjoy!

San Francisco’s Boulevard Restaurant Wins a James Beard Award

 

Boulevard Restaurant

 

On my recent trip to San Francisco, I made the wise decision to book a table for dinner at Boulevard, located just by the Ferry Building. I have long admired the cooking of Nancy Oakes, who teamed up with noted designer Pat Kuleto to open the restaurant in 1993 (hard to believe!). With its Belle Epoque flair and first-class staff, the restaurant hums with a liveliness that never overpowers or distracts from the excellent food. My starter of ahi tuna, sliced into thin ribbons, brought together a whole world of Japanese flavors and textures, including bits of fried tofu and a small salad of seaweed and turnip, all with a sherry-soy vinaigrette. The equally imaginative and beautifully prepared Berkshire pork prime rib chop came with delicious little dumplings made from sauerkraut and bacon, tiny turnips with a glistening cider glaze, some apple crème fraiche as an accent and a dressing of pork jus with sage.  I was delighted to find the restaurant even better than when it first opened, and this was without question one of the standout meals I’ve had this year.  To go to San Francisco and not dine here would be an oversight!  I am all the more pleased to see that this achievement has recently been noted by the James Beard Foundation, which gave it the coveted Outstanding Restaurant award. Well done and well deserved!

-A.H.

A Weekend at The Lowell

Room at The Lowell, New YorkA classic New York hotel on the Upper East Side, The Lowell offers the convenience of a city apartment and the luxury of an around-the-clock hotel staff — all comfortably tucked away in a quiet residential neighborhood. The Lowell is located just steps away from some of the best shopping in the city and is equally close to Midtown Manhattan offices, the theater district and Lincoln Center, making it an ideal place to stay while visiting New York.

We had the chance to sit down with John Mark Hopkins, chef concierge at The Lowell, to discuss the perfect weekend in New York, including recommendations for the best things to do, sites to see and places to eat within a five- to 10-block radius of the hotel.

Tell me about The Lowell. What sets your hotel apart from other luxury options in the city?

The Lowell is a small, independent hotel with only 72 rooms and suites; we’re also the only hotel in New York City with woodburning fireplaces in several of our suites, and many of our suites have recently been redesigned by Michael Smith.

The property itself is special, but I think our best asset is our staff; a lot of my colleagues have been here for many years and take great pride in the service they provide. Our owners and general manager recognize and value the hotel’s unique character, and we strive for service that is warm, gracious and personalized. One frequently experiences a cookie-cutter, highly scripted version of guest service in larger hotels, but we are very proud of not doing that at The Lowell.

Discretion is one of the first words that come to mind when speaking about The Lowell. We have many very high-profile guests who prefer to keep a low profile when they’re with us, and they love being able to slip in and out of the hotel without a lot of attention. We don’t have a huge lobby filled with people hoping for a glimpse of a celebrity; our guests know that The Lowell’s opulence and luxury are discreetly waiting for them upstairs.

Would you say The Lowell is best suited for the experienced or first-time New York visitor?

I think it is perfect for both. We’re ready to provide as much assistance as a first-time visitor needs, and our small scale means that a guest will feel at home very quickly. We’re also in a very exclusive, primarily residential, neighborhood; you can get to Midtown in a very few minutes, but East 63rd Street feels miles away from the commotion of Midtown.

Experienced visitors love us as well; I’ve noticed during my eight years at The Lowell that most of our first-time visitors become regulars. One very quickly begins to feel like an Upper East Sider here, and The Lowell becomes a second home.

What experiences are unique to The Lowell?

Curling up with a book next to the fireplace in your suite; the opulence of our Michael Smith-designed Penthouse Suite with two or three bedrooms (your choice), four private terraces, three bathrooms and a gourmet kitchen — we can even arrange for a private chef and butler for you if you like; being welcomed home by our staff members who think of you as part of their extended family.

Sticking to a five- to 10-block radius, what would you recommended as the best place to …

… shop for the afternoon?

Shopping is one of the more universally popular activities in this neighborhood. All you have to do is walk out our front door and turn left, and you’re on Madison Avenue in about 30 seconds. Don’t worry too much about whether to turn left or right, because you’ll want to shop in both directions. And don’t worry about how much you can carry; everyone around here delivers.

If you time your visit right, you can be here during one of the many art and antique fairs held throughout the year at the Park Avenue Armory at Park Avenue and 67th Street — a five-minute walk from The Lowell.

And if you’ve done all of the Madison Avenue boutiques and are still in the mood for shopping, try some of these unique places:

Tender Buttons: Open since 1964, this is the only shop in the United States devoted entirely to buttons. It’s amazing. 62nd between Lexington and Third avenues.

Just Bulbs: The only light bulb store you’ll ever need, on 60th between Second and Third avenues.

Katagiri: Need to stock up on okonomiyaki mix or miso paste? How about frozen cod roe or gyoza? The oldest Japanese grocery store in the United States is on 59th between Second and Third avenues.

Dylan’s Candy Bar: Yes, there are several of them now, but this is the original flagship store and a very popular destination: 60th and Third Avenue.

Kraft Hardware: This has been the place to go to for decorative hardware, plumbing and accessories for more than 70 years: 62nd Street between First and Second avenues.

Mrs. John L. Strong: Wonderfully old-fashioned bespoke stationery since 1929, on Madison Avenue between 62nd and 63rd streets.

Read the full article »

The Global Entry Program: One Travel Hassle Avoided

Global Entry Program

 

Although I’ve been aware of the Global Entry program for years, I never took the time to apply. A membership, which allows travelers to bypass the lines at U.S. Immigration and use kiosks instead, just didn’t seem to be worth the effort. But with more and more friends and colleagues giving me positive reports about their experiences, I decided the program might merit reconsidering. Now, after going through the application process and reaping the rewards of Global Entry, I regret not doing it sooner.

It took a little over an hour to fill out the online application at www.globalentry.gov. The time required will vary, depending on how frequently you’ve changed addresses and workplaces over the last five years (have this information ready before you begin). In addition to other basic information such as passport and driver’s license numbers, the application asks you to enter the countries you’ve visited in the last five years. My ridiculously long list reminded me just how lucky I am to do the work I do.

I filled out the application on February 29 and paid the $100 nonrefundable processing fee. On March 1, I received an e-mail saying that I had been approved for an interview. This final part of the application process must be completed at a major airport or customs house (you can see a full list of locations here). I scheduled my interview for March 21, a day I had to be at the airport in any case.

I expected a barrage of personal questions, but the interview turned out to be quick and painless. After greeting me on time, a TSA agent took my photo and fingerprints and explained how to enter the United States using the Global Entry kiosks. I was in and out in 20 minutes, and the membership remains valid for five years. Not a bad deal for $100.

When we arrived back in the United States, I tried an unscientific (and rather dangerous) experiment at Immigration. I asked Mrs. Harper to wait in the dauntingly long regular line while I used the kiosks, and I timed the difference.

It took me two minutes to scan my passport, scan my fingerprints and declare to customs that I had nothing to declare. I breezed through Immigration and headed to baggage claim, where luggage from our flight began to pile up, the owners caught in the interminable Immigration line. I rescued our luggage a few minutes before baggage handlers began tossing suitcases off the clogged carousel onto the floor.

A rather grumpy Mrs. Harper made it through Immigration 36 minutes after I did. As of this writing, her Global Entry application is pending approval.

-A.H.

A Thousand Dollars a Night

Wall Street Journal

Yesterday’s Wall Street Journal noted that the nightly rate for a standard room at an established luxury property in London and Paris broke the $1,000 barrier some time ago, with New York not far behind. Will $1,000 a night soon become the new normal? I certainly hope not, but for that amount of money, my basic expectation of a hotel is to be supremely impressed.

I understand the concept of overhead; I charge a premium for my editorial services because I don’t accept complimentary stays.  Superior facilities, unique locations and quality service all cost money (as the article notes, the Hotel du Cap-Eden Roc has roughly three employees per room). I have found, however, that when I encounter problems with a hotel that charges 30 to 40 percent more than comparable properties in the area, those problems tend to bother me 30 to 40 percent more than usual. I’m sure I’m not the only one who feels this way.

No doubt some Hideaway Report readers are more comfortable with these pricing altitudes than others, but all of them expect value for their money. The next five years will see exponential growth in new properties asking guests for $1,000 a night just to get past the doorman. Not all will be worth it.

-A.H. 

Luxury Travel News: May 4, 2012

 

Jao Camp

Jao Camp, Botswana

Highlights from Andrew Harper’s twitter feed @HarperTravel:

Jao Camp reopens: http://goo.gl/XHHJN

Small Luxury Hotels reports over 150,000 members: http://ow.ly/aI50b

“Paris in Strides” – a wonderful new multimedia feature from Lexus based on the new Andrew Harper Paris App: http://goo.gl/MhBEA

Extraordinary slideshow of South Africa’s Bushman’s Kloof: http://goo.gl/MeKla

Ritz Carlton to earn 20% of its revenue from Middle East – 15 properties by 2015:  http://goo.gl/Sccn4

New York’s Four Seasons restaurant is contemplating a second location in The Meatpacking District: http://goo.gl/NWpF0

Nantucket’s White Elephant is expanding: http://goo.gl/50kkL

Ritz-Carlton launches new mobile app: http://goo.gl/wKcgS

Rosewood Mansion on Peachtree is now Mandarin Oriental Atlanta: http://goo.gl/0GmRP

Halekulani undergoing a $52M hotel renovation: http://goo.gl/uS5UD

Wonderful safari slideshow by a professional photographer featuring several Wilderness Safari properties: http://goo.gl/8noFN

New Mombo Camp video: http://goo.gl/uHz1m

Amanresorts announces new Indonesian cruise ship http://goo.gl/OKyGk