Stockholm’s most charming small hotel, 12-room Ett Hem, opened in May and occupies an art nouveau mansion in the city’s quiet Lärkstan district. (“Ett Hem” means “a home” in Swedish.) It is a flawless urban sanctuary.
The property sits behind a red brick wall, surrounded by a small landscaped garden. On arrival, we made ourselves at home in a glass conservatory off the kitchen, where the chef served us a light lunch of pan-fried Arctic char with herb mayonnaise and a terrific salad of roasted baby carrots, shallots and potatoes with salad leaves and fresh herbs. Our lovely accommodations came with an oak parquet floor, a crystal chandelier on a dimmer, and a brown leather sofa with a sheepskin throw. A woodburning ceramic stove warmed a corner of the room. The small bath held a white marble-framed Victorian-style double vanity and a spacious stall shower. We marveled at the attention to detail.
The only downside to Ett Hem is that it is well inland from the waterways that are so emblematic of Stockholm. For my part, returning to the hotel from dinner, it really did feel as though I were coming home.
Double Deluxe Room, $745; Junior Suite, $985. Skoldungagatan 2, Stockholm. Tel. (46) 8-20-05-90.
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