Capella Pedregal

From the Hideaway Report

June 2011 Hideaway Report

The new Capella Pedregal is located in the town of Cabo San Lucas at the tip of the peninsula, whereas its three famous competitors are all in the so-called “Corridor” that extends for 20 miles northeast to San José del Cabo. Much has changed since 1973 and the completion of carretera federal No. 1 that first ushered tourists down from the north. Cabo San Lucas is a raucous party town and busy cruise ship port nowadays, and not an obvious place to construct an opulent five-star resort. 

Today, I cannot think of any other hotel in the world that has a comparably dramatic approach. Tall iron gates swing noiselessly aside and you enter a tunnel illuminated by chandeliers, with the Pacific glinting in the distance. I felt as though I had been unexpectedly cast in a James Bond movie and that Blofeld would be waiting to greet me. 

It was back in the 1970s that architect Manuel Diaz Rivera bought 360 acres of land at the precise point where the Pacific meets the Sea of Cortez. There was then no means of access to the beach, which is separated from the town by an impassable rock-strewn ridge. Diaz Rivera built a marina and a number of lavish clifftop residences, but it was not until 1999 that his grandson, Juan, decided to drill a 1,000-foot tunnel clean through the hillside to the sea.

Much of Capella Pedregal has been constructed on a broad ledge at the bottom of a cliff face, which forms a vast natural balcony overlooking the Pacific. It is an undeniably spectacular setting, and the fact that the tunnel provides the only means of access creates an immediate sense of privilege and seclusion. The boisterous bars of Cabo San Lucas might as well not exist. Only the resort’s tennis courts are on the town side of the tunnel, and most guests seem to stay within their private enclave, venturing out chiefly to go jogging or to try one of the local restaurants.

Most of the 66 accommodations are contained within four- and five-story buildings. Our third-floor Deluxe Ocean View Room came with a terrace, an unheated plunge pool and a hypnotic view of the sea. We sat for a while, soothed by the sound of the breaking surf, scanning the water with the provided binoculars hoping to catch a glimpse of the last of the season’s gray whales. Alas, we were out of luck. The prime whale-watching season is January through March, when Capella must offer an unrivaled vantage point.

The room had been decorated in a traditional Mexican style with a beamed ceiling and handcarved woodwork. Frankly, we found it a little dark and the style more appropriate for an inland hacienda than a brand-new beachfront resort. But our surroundings were undeniably comfortable and provided all the modern amenities you might expect, plus a gas log fire for evenings when the breeze turns chilly. The bath was appointed with a claw-foot soaking tub, as well as a large shower area with both ceiling and wall-mounted fixtures. On another occasion, we might opt to spend considerably more on a splendid 1,390-square-foot One Bedroom Beach Casita. These directly overlook the sand and come with private infinity plunge pools and fire pits.

The principal restaurant at Capella Pedregal is Don Manuel’s, where the menu features modern Mexican cuisine. We mostly opted for fish, including outstanding macadamia-crusted sea bass served with a side of aged sheep cheese broth, and caramelized black cod with braised tomatoes. For appetizers, it was hard to resist the memorable ceviches. The resort offers the alternative of a clifftop seafood grill, El Farallón, and an attractive beach club for casual dining. (The gazpacho served with crabmeat in a sundae glass was so delicious that I would happily have it for lunch every day for a month.)

The Capella offers four pools — two for families and two for adults — and a long, private stretch of golden sand. The beach shelves sharply, however, creating rip currents that make it far too hazardous for swimming. Activities encompass golf on the six local courses, including Jack Nicklaus’ renowned Cabo del Sol Ocean Course, which is invariably rated among the top 100 in the world. The resort also has privileged access to the Cabo San Lucas marina and its fleet. But during our stay, most of our fellow guests did not seem to stray too far from the pool, abandoning their loungers chiefly for appointments at the magnificent 10,000-square-foot Auriga Spa.

Amenities