The Hermitage Hotel

Commissioned by a group of 250 civic-minded leaders who believed that their town sorely lacked a first-rate hotel, the Beaux Arts-style Hermitage quickly became a focal point of Nashville’s business and social life. After a period of decline that began in the ’70s, this grande dame was rescued in 2003 by new investors, who gave it a $17 million restoration.

That the money was well-spent is clearly evident in the hotel’s spectacular lobby. A resplendent space, it has Siena marble floors covered in Persian carpets, fluted columns and expanses of carved walnut, all topped by a magnificent stained-glass ceiling. A key part of the renovation was a reduction in the number of rooms to 123, making them an average 475 square feet. Decorated in a soft palette of olive green and cream, accompanied by traditional furniture, they strike a comforting balance between homey and elegant. The generous marble baths come with separate showers and, in some rooms, deep soaking tubs set by windows. Request a room with a view of the majestic Tennessee Capitol.

Two other areas that particularly benefited from the hotel’s makeover are the Oak Bar and the adjacent Capitol Grille (no relation to the steakhouse group Capital Grille). With dark oak paneling, leather chairs and a mirror-backed counter, the Oak Bar is a small, clubby spot that has become a favorite local watering hole. There, I savored a Jack Daniel’s — not a bourbon, which can only be produced in Kentucky — but a fine Tennessee whiskey.

Originally built by German artisans as a rathskeller — both restaurant and bar are below the main floor — the Capitol Grille is an atmospheric space with vaulted ceilings and walls adorned with murals of famous Tennessee sights. Chef Tyler Brown’s menu is full of delicious takes on Southern dishes, with an emphasis on local products. Starters of plump fried oysters accompanied by dirty rice with smoked Hollandaise and tomato butter, and smoked trout with Marcona almonds and fig jam were followed by a smoked pork chop and sides of fried grits, bourbon- braised greens and a thick peach jam, and roasted halibut with salsify and grapefruit. This fine restaurant is well worth visiting, even if you are not a guest at the hotel.

The staff could not have been more pleasant during our stay, particularly the concierges, who were unfailingly helpful and gracious. Overall, the restoration of The Hermitage has been a triumph.