Hotel Le Toiny

From the Hideaway Report

October 2011 Hideaway Report

Those in search of complete seclusion need look no farther than the Hotel Le Toiny, set on a hillside overlooking the sparsely populated Côte Sauvage, four miles east of the island’s capital, Gustavia. (A hired car is required for trips to swimming beaches 15 minutes away.) I have long recommended this delectable enclave, but my previous visit was prior to a 2008 refurbishment, and hearing that further changes were afoot under the direction of the new general managers, Guy and Dagmar Lombard, an incognito stay was clearly overdue.

The 14 suites and one three-bedroom cottage complex were laid out to ensure optimal privacy, as well as panoramic views of the Bay of Toiny. We had opted to stay in a 1,075-square-foot One-bedroom Villa Suite. These are self-contained, pastel-colored tin-roofed Caribbean cottages, whose seclusion is augmented by 24-hour room service. Now decorated in an elegant French Colonial style, each comes with a spacious living room, separated from the bedroom by a sliding partition. The large four- poster bed is draped with mosquito netting, while the plush bath comes with a walk-in shower and soaking tub. During the recent refurbishment, the white walls were repainted an attractive shade of light gray-green, and the terra-cotta tile floors were replaced by dark wood planking. Glass doors lead out onto a terrace, in which is set a 10-by-20-foot private swimming pool. The current program of improvements will substitute creamy-white travertine for terra cotta on the terrace, and reline the pools with black volcanic stone, changing the color of the water from turquoise to a deep marine blue.

What has not changed at Le Toiny is its superb restaurant, Le Gaiac, which remains the top dining spot on St. Barths. The enchanting open-air space is fronted by a half-moon infinity pool — in which I have never seen anyone dip so much as a toe — beyond which an expanse of the Caribbean is punctuated by the volcanic profiles of the islands Saba and Sint Eustatius. Chef Stéphane Mazières’ sumptuous cuisine imaginatively blends French and Creole elements, with favorite dishes from our stay including sea urchin roe in a cauliflower cream with dots of caviar, and perfectly prepared turbot served with a flavorful eggplant caviar and tomato tartare. The service at Le Gaiac proved as congenial and professional as it was everywhere during our stay.

Hotel Le Toiny’s only real drawback is that it is not on a beach, or even close to one that is suitable for swimming. Overall, however, it is a sophisticated hideaway that continues to improve with time, ideal for those who want to recharge in idyllic surroundings.

Amenities