Congenial resort on a 320-acre private residential island 15 minutes from Antigua, managed by Rosewood and reopened in 2009 after a $28 million renovation. The property now has 28 new suites (to make a total of 40 rooms); two new restaurants, one with an infinity pool; and a lovely new open-air spa. White-sand beaches; also tennis, kayaking, non-motorized boating, off-island excursions and snorkeling. The Estate House restaurant, a lovely Spanish Colonial building dating to 1830, is a charming place for delicious Caribbean-inflected food. Service is exceptional throughout.
We have been visiting Jumby Bay regularly since it opened in 1983. A 320-acre private island two miles north of Antigua — 15 minutes by speedboat — it has been widely regarded as one of the top resorts in the Caribbean for most of the past 28 years and has long enjoyed the affections of many Harper members. The hotel’s history has not been uneventful, however. Initial problems included weed on the main beach and noise from planes taking off at Antigua’s nearby international airport. Then, in the mid ’90s, a legal battle erupted that wasn’t settled until 1998, when residents bought out the island’s owners. The newly formed Jumby Bay Island Company announced that it intended to make the island a first-rank residential-resort community. To that end, it devised a master plan and, in 2002, hired Rosewood to manage the property. But although Jumby Bay continued to thrive, the world had moved on and the resort began to show its age.
In 2008, the company decided to close the hotel for a $28 million renovation. Actually, it was pretty much razed except for some of the original rondavels, and 28 new suites were built — for a total of 40 rooms — as well as two new restaurants and a spa, all of which debuted at the end of 2009.
We arrived in Antigua late, thanks to the dependably undependable schedule of LIAT, an airline whose chief purpose is to increase the revenue of Marquis Jet. But the frustration and annoyance were washed away by the exceptionally warm greeting we received after clearing immigration. This proved to be an intimation of the charming service throughout our stay. Whisked through customs, we were escorted to a dedicated stand, where a car awaited us for the three-minute drive to the resort’s dock.
The resort’s launch was already visible, and within moments, courteous crew members decked out in crisp whites were helping us aboard. The stretch of turquoise sea that separates Jumby Bay from the mainland is frequently referred to as “our moat” by the island’s homeowners, and on arrival, there is an unmistakable air of privilege and seclusion. Brief registration formalities took place in the new bar of The Verandah restaurant, and as disagreeable memories of LIAT began to fade, we sat for a few minutes in quiet contemplation of the sparkling white sand and aquamarine water.
We had opted for one of the new Courtyard Suites, which are housed within stucco cottages with tile roofs. Entering through an attractively landscaped courtyard, we found a spacious room with a vaulted ceiling, a sitting area and large four-poster bed. It was decorated in a muted palette and appointed with furniture that seemed vaguely Caribbean British Colonial, thanks to details such as pineapple finials on the bedposts. French doors opened onto a spacious terrace with ocean views. A large dressing area led to an expansive tiled bath with mosaic walls, and a captivating outdoor bathing courtyard came with a shower and soaking tub. Bliss.
Just outside the entry courtyard, two bicycles awaited. These are the preferred mode of transportation on the island — with golf carts always on call as an alternative. Jumby Bay is ribboned with paths, and the atmosphere is one of informal congeniality, with young and old, couples and families all dismounting to chat. And unlike some comparable properties, there seems to be little or no friction between the homeowners and the resort guests. (Mustique, for instance, is notorious in this respect.) The residents have a strong proprietary interest in the well-being of the resort, as the profits go back into the maintenance of the island’s shared facilities.
Both The Verandah in the main building and The Pool Grille offer fine casual fare, however, we most enjoyed The Estate House, a Spanish Colonial structure dating to 1830 that was once at the center of the island’s sugar plantation. Surrounded by palms and hibiscus, the terrace is a delightful place in which to enjoy the Caribbean- inflected food. Two highlights were lobster ravioli in a spicy broth, and lamb enlivened with “mojito” flavorings of rum and mint. The resort’s numerous activities include tennis, kayaking, non-motorized boating and snorkeling. The open-air Sense spa offers a predictable catalog of treatments, plus special therapies such as the “Sun Worshiper,” a hydrating body treatment for those who have spent too much time basking on the beach.
Which, frankly, was about all we did. Having eased into one of the chaises longues under the shelter of a palm-thatched palapa and summoned a cooler of iced water from one of the attendants, we would settle down to read, letting the hours slip by.
Jumby Bay is the most accessible of the Caribbean’s leading private island resorts — its principal competitors being Petit St. Vincent and Mustique in St. Vincent and the Grenadines and Peter Island in the British Virgin Islands — and now that planes taking off from Antigua airport do not routinely fly over the island, you experience the desired sensation of detachment from the world. After more than a quarter of a century, Jumby Bay seems finally to have fulfilled its potential. It is now one of the Caribbean’s finest resorts and has our unequivocal endorsement.
Illustration ©Melissa Colson
Rondavel, from $1,295; Beachside Courtyard Suite, from $1,950.
Rates include all meals, beverages, watersports, fitness facilities, sports equipment, daily children's program and Wi-Fi.
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Air-Conditioning
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Babysitting Services
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Beach Access
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Biking
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Children Welcome
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Coffeemaker
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Concierge
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Deepsea Fishing
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DVD Player
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Fitness Center
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Golf
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Grand Award Winners 2012
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Hair Dryer
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Hair Salon
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Housekeeping Daily
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iPod Docking Station/MP3 Player
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Kids Club
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Laundry
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Minibar with Refrigerator
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Outdoor Swimming Pool, Heated
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Restaurant
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Robes
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Room Service
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Safe
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SCUBA Diving
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Sightseeing Tours
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Snorkeling
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Spa
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Tennis Courts
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TV
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Wireless Internet
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Wireless Internet in Public Areas
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Wireless Internet, Complimentary
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