Nun Assisi Relais & Spa

From the Hideaway Report

August 2012 Hideaway Report

The following day, we headed northwest to Assisi via the dramatic hill town of Montefalco (which, roughly translated, means “a falcon on its nest.”) After 90 minutes on the autostrada, we turned onto a country road that wound through hillsides planted with olive trees and neatly trimmed vineyards. Montefalco is surrounded by impressive 14th-century stone ramparts, and the top of its Torre Comunale affords an extraordinary panoramic view of virtually the whole of Umbria.

When the church bells rang at noon, our best intentions swiftly collapsed, as they seem to do every day in Italy. At breakfast, we’d agreed to have just a sandwich or a salad for lunch, and no wine. But by late morning, we’d begun reading menus and hence ended up at Coccorone, a delightful restaurant with a sunny terrace. Our aim was to order just a plate of pasta. “I’ll try the stringozzi (a square spaghetti) with wild asparagus,” Mrs. Harper said, sensibly. I agreed, adding that it would nonetheless be a shame to find ourselves in the heart of the Sagrantino vineyards that produce Umbria’s best red wines without sampling at least a glass, especially since I’d spotted several bottles from the boutique Paolo Bea winery on the list. It was then that the waiter arrived with magnificent veal chops on a silver tray sprinkled with parsley and proposed that they be cooked over a wood fire with just a little lemon, salt and rosemary. Suddenly, it seemed foolish to refuse, so we ordered pasta, veal chops and a bottle of wine, solemnly vowing to have but a frugal supper of fruit, cheese and mineral water.

After lunch, we strolled across to the Palazzo Bontadosi, a recently opened 10-room hotel on the main square. A friendly front-desk clerk gave us a guided tour of the property, housed within a 15th-century former cardinal’s residence. There, we admired the handsomely renovated rooms and decided to book De Luxe Room #1 on our next visit to experience its extraordinary frescoes.

It is a 40-minute drive from Montefalco to Assisi, the hilltop birthplace of St. Francis. (We paused along the way, however, to visit the picturesque little town of Spello, where the church of Santa Maria Maggiore contains wonderfully vibrant frescoes by Pinturicchio.) To be honest, we’d questioned the wisdom of staying in a town that attracts thousands of pilgrims and art lovers daily. Furthermore, Assisi hasn’t possessed a hotel suitable for Harper members. But with the recent opening of the 18-room Nun Assisi Relais & Spa, housed within a renovated 13th-century convent, this endlessly fascinating place has acquired a new dimension.

The historic building has been imaginatively modernized and enjoys an ideal location high above the town, where parking is easy and you can come and go on foot. Once we’d checked in, the enthusiastic young woman at the front desk urged us to take a peek at the hotel’s spa before heading upstairs. Occupying the artfully lit remains of a Roman amphitheater, this proved to be one of the most dramatic and appealing spas we’ve ever seen, and we immediately decided to spend the afternoon there enjoying the Roman-style facilities, which include tepidario, caldario, sudatorio and frigidario pools, in addition to a full menu of treatments.

Our allocated room was intriguing — it occupied the convent’s deconsecrated chapel — but it didn’t appeal to us, as the bed was in a loft upstairs. Happily, the management was able to accommodate us in a room on a single level, the #2 Privilege Suite. (Be forewarned: Many of the rooms come in duplex configurations, so be explicit about your requirements in advance.) I often find contemporary design to be cold or gimmicky, but our minimalist room with exposed stone walls, a terra-cotta floor and streamlined white furnishings was comfortable, if not overly indulgent. The bath was sizeable, with a stone floor and an effective shower, but no tub.

The hotel restaurant is surprisingly good and serves modern versions of traditional Umbrian dishes. The menu changes about every three months, but the chef’s specialties include Chianina beef with stuffed zucchini, tomatoes and olive oil cream; and roasted squid with pork cheeks and a cream of porcini mushrooms. Throughout our stay, the young and energetic staff members were charm personified.

Amenities