Playa Vik José Ignacio

From the Hideaway Report

June 2012 Hideaway Report

At a dinner party in Buenos Aires prior to our departure for Uruguay, the first thing the other guests wanted to know was whether we were staying at one or both of Alex Vik’s new hotels, the seaside Playa Vik José Ignacio and the eques-trian-oriented Estancia Vik José Ignacio, about 12 miles inland. (A Norwegian-Uruguayan Internet tycoon, Vik is now based in Greenwich, Connecticut.) “They’re very expensive but very special,” our hostess confided, so we made the easy 40-minute drive from Las Piedras to José Ignacio with great expectations. Suffice it to say, we were thoroughly charmed by the town, which reminded us of a Latin American version of Truro on Cape Cod.

On arrival, you’d never guess this relaxed little place with an old cigar of a lighthouse and a busy playa brava (beach with surf) on the east flank of a peninsula and a quieter playa mansa (beach with calmer waters) on the west was anyplace fashionable.

The Playa Vik Jose Ignacio is the work of Uruguayan architect Carlos Ott, who also designed the Contemporary Arts Center in Cincinnati and the Opéra Bastille in Paris. The property opened last year and comprises four suites and six pavilions (with two or three bedrooms). A spectacular lap pool is cantilevered over an expanse of lawn, and museum-quality modern art is displayed in the sculpture pavilion, a striking structure containing two pieces by Iraqi architect Zaha Hadid, among those of other world-class artists. Overall, the place has an upscale bohemian personality.

The seafront complex is surrounded by a wall that encloses limestone, concrete, titanium and glass structures in a landscaped garden. The pavilions are ideal for families 
— during our stay, we chatted with a hedge fund manager from New York on vacation with his wife and three sons, as well as a doctor and his children from Raleigh — while the four suites are better suited to couples.

Our rhomboid-shaped room, “Fuerteventura,” proved to be the ultimate in sea-shack chic, with gorgeous teak floors, white walls and striking photographs. A very comfortable bed was made up in Frette sheets, and a dressing room came with built-in teak shelves and wardrobes. Despite the bold contemporary design, the room also managed to be very comfortable, almost cozy, with a moss-green velvet sofa, a copper-clad granite-topped coffee table, an area rug made from thick strips of soft brown leather, and a magnificent teak writing desk. The bath was a large and very dramatic space, clad in sheets of aluminum riveted together like an old airplane. A rainfall shower and a large Boffi bath by Philippe Starck flanked the double vanities, and toiletries were all-natural and biodegradable, reflecting a commitment to sound environmental practices. (Geothermal energy is used to create a natural air-conditioning system; rainwater is captured for irrigation; and there are solar panels hidden on the roofs.)

Service from the young and attractive staff was generally good, but the general manager was a bit of a cold fish, which somewhat detracted from the warm, almost family-style, atmosphere. An intimate property like this needs a charming host or hostess to interact casually with the guests. And as spellbound as we were by the beauty of the setting and the design of our room, we were a little disappointed with the food and beverage options. Given the room prices, breakfast should have been a memorable feast, but aside from very good homemade banana and walnut breads, it was a cursory buffet, with a Nespresso machine rather than good coffee, and no toast served with an order of fried eggs. Similarly, dinner proved to be an adequate meal of figs with salad and melted Camembert, followed by steak with sautéed potatoes and a garnish of chopped onion and peppers, but it was overpriced at $80. The wines poured by the glass were mediocre. Fortunately, there are numerous good restaurants in José Ignacio — including the excellent La Huella — and most guests dine out for both lunch and dinner. Amenities at the resort include a small spa, a workout room with a sauna, a games room and a sunken barbecue pit where guests gather around the fire for a nightcap.

A great destination for a stylish and offbeat family beach holiday, Playa Vik is also a perfect base from which to explore the rest of Uruguay’s spectacular coastline. If you require 24-hour room service and a serviced beach, then Playa Vik is not for you. If, on the other hand, you are content with an easygoing seaside existence, appreciate contemporary art and design, and have a sense of adventure when you travel, this remarkable property just might become one of your favorite hotels.

Amenities