The St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort, Puerto Rico

From the Hideaway Report

October 2011 Hideaway Report

This self-governing territory of the United States lacks the white beaches that are so quintessentially Caribbean — with the exception of the offshore island of Vieques, the sand tends to be reddish-gold and often quite coarse — and consequently, few sophisticated resorts have been developed here.

However, the game changed with the 2010 opening of The St. Regis Bahia Beach Resort. Located an easy 40-minute drive east of San Juan’s Luis Muñoz Marin International Airport, the St. Regis is sequestered on a 483-acre former coconut plantation. Now, the enclave is home to the 139-room resort, a Robert Trent Jones Jr. 18-hole golf course and two miles of unspoiled golden sand. The heart of the property is a spectacular pavilion accessed by a covered walkway across a koi pond. Inside, we found a double-height lounge, a small but eclectically stocked library (also home to the concierges) and the St. Regis Bar.

As evidence of the resort’s commitment to the preservation of the environment — for which it has received recognition from Audubon — there are few roadways linking the rooms, but rather boardwalks that leave minimal footprints among the lush vegetation. Even the ride from the main house to our suite seemed quite an adventure!

Of the accommodations, 35 are one-bedroom suites, and I heartily recommend them. Ours had a spacious living room decorated in soothing tones of beige dark wood, which opened on to a handsomely appointed deck overlooking a narrow expanse of lawn and the beach. An equally large bedroom came with a clever lighting scheme, while a large bath featured an expansive wet area and a rainfall shower adjacent to a soaking tub. A butler was on hand to help with unpacking.

Lazy days at the St. Regis tend to be spent beside the stunning pool. Terraced on three levels with waterfalls, free-form bays, landscaped gardens and fully mature palm trees, it is a wonderful oasis. During our stay, there was never a shortage of loungers, and waiters hovered attentively with cold drinks and additional towels. The adjacent open-air Seagrapes restaurant offers fare that is modestly billed as “deli” and includes one of the best California rolls I’ve ever eaten.

The showcase restaurant, Fern, in the main pavilion, is nominally under the direction of chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten (as are all of the formal dining rooms at St. Regis properties). In an elegant setting of dark wood floors and silver-leafed walls, executive chef Maycoll Calderon has created a menu that reflects the island’s flavors, with dishes such as a refreshing chilled watermelon gazpacho, and delicious roasted grouper with black beans and scallions. Also well worth a visit is Molasses, the informal restaurant at the golf clubhouse, where you can try the local specialty, mofongo, a fried plantain-based dish, here served with slow-braised meat, caramelized onions, peppers and a zippy salsa criolla.

The primary pastime at the resort is golf, but the excellent concierge staff is full of other ideas for activities, both on and off the property. These include catamaran sailing, kayaking, tours of the nearby rain forest, horseback riding and visits to Old San Juan. Alternatively, the 10,000-square-foot Remède Spa offers seven massage cottages overlooking a colorful garden.

During our stay, the St. Regis was at full occupancy, yet it never felt crowded, even at the pool. (The space, number of activities and high degree of organization all make the property ideal for families.) Overall, this is a fine new resort and one that greatly exceeded our expectations.

Amenities