Waldorf Astoria Chicago

From the Hideaway Report

April 2011 Hideaway Report

The Waldorf Astoria Chicago (188 rooms and suites - originally called The Elysian) opened in January 2010 in the prestigious Gold Coast neighborhood. The owners’ stated intention is to bring a smaller, European-style property to a great American city. Driving into the courtyard, I had the strange impression of being in Paris, owing to the gated entrance, central fountain and a curved metal-and-glass marquee that resembled a Parisian art nouveau subway entrance. Cheerful staff whisked our luggage into the lobby, a dramatic two-story space gleaming with white Carrara marble and illuminated by an extraordinary crystal chandelier that looked like a fantastically bejeweled sea urchin.

Our spacious suite was very welcoming, thanks in part to a convincing gas-burning fireplace. Its décor was a successful blend of classic and contemporary, with dove-gray walls and clean-lined, extremely comfortable furniture. Amenities included a Bowers & Wilkins sound system and free Wi-Fi. A roomy dressing area led to a large bath in white marble with black accents. On our first morning, I asked the concierge to recommend a breakfast spot in the neighborhood, as we had planned an extended walking tour. He duly provided some options, but then suggested Balsan, the hotel’s casual restaurant. “Let me take you up,” he said, so we duly followed, not entirely persuaded. Even in luxury hotels, breakfast buffets are often rather depressing. Balsan turned out to be a smart, modern space with exceptionally affable staff. My poached eggs with apple wood-smoked bacon and sautéed fingerling potatoes were memorably good.

RIA, the Waldorf Astoria's romantic formal restaurant, has just been awarded two stars in the 2011 Michelin Guide, which is an extraordinary accolade for such a new place. (It should be noted, however, that the founding chef, Jason McLeod, left in February of this year and has been replaced by Danny Grant, who also oversees the Balsan kitchen.) Scrupulously sourced ingredients are employed in imaginative dishes such as a starter of black cod and caviar with a dash of blood orange, and whole roasted turbot (for two) with salsify, black truffles and zesty lemon. I thoroughly enjoyed reviewing the wine list with the engaging young sommelier, Dan Pilkey, who has put together a fascinating 90-page list. In general, the staff at RIA are proper and polite, with no hint of pretension. My only complaint is that the restaurant is closed on Sunday and Monday nights, which seems a real disservice to hotel guests.

On the flip side of culinary indulgence, the Chicago Waldorf Astoria's 14,000-square-foot spa and health club features a gorgeous pool with a shimmering mosaic design, and a dedicated men’s atelier, where one can indulge in a traditional wet shave followed by a head massage. The Chicago Waldorf Astoria represents a delightful, smaller alternative to two perennial Harper favorites in Chicago, the 339-room Peninsula and the 346-room Four Seasons.

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