Bordeaux

Despite the captivating beauty of its ancient towns, the timeless serenity of its landscape and the global fame of its wines, the Bordeaux region (or Bordelais) remains surprisingly little known to Americans. Fine châteaux hotels, sophisticated modern spas and some of the most notable restaurants in France are just a few of the reasons to undertake a leisurely tour of this lovely area. And, of course, along the way you will have the opportunity to sample legendary vintages such as Margaux, Pauillac and Lafite.

The city of Bordeaux is one of the most elegant in Europe, thanks in part to an extensive urban renewal project that created a gleaming tramway system as well as numerous delightful pedestrian zones. The old warehouses lining the banks of the River Garonne are being redeveloped into stylish museums, restaurants and shops. And when the Grand Hôtel de Bordeaux reopens after a comprehensive renovation (including a plush interior by star French decorator Jacques Garcia), the city may finally have the notable lodging that it has so sorely lacked. Meanwhile, it is best to make day trips from the nearby countryside to enjoy the city’s magnificent architecture, excellent restaurants and fine museums (especially the Musée d’Aquitaine, which offers a superb introduction to the entire area).

In the surrounding Bordelais, a new generation of vineyard owners is working to make wine tourism ever more welcoming and rewarding. Not long ago, the great châteaux tended to receive visitors with a distinct lack of enthusiasm. But now they have come to realize that a warm and sincere welcome, as well as an accessible introduction to wine connoisseurship, are modern necessities. As one well-placed wine professional observed to us, “If they want new customers, they’ll have to grow them as carefully and lovingly as they do their grapes.”

To tour the region at a comfortable pace, plan to spend several nights in the three major wine areas of the Bordelais. The Médoc extends along the western bank of the wide Gironde estuary to the north of the city of Bordeaux. This is home to many of the most famous Grands Crus (like Margaux), as well as the lovely setting for renowned estates such as Château Mouton Rothschild. A local ferry will take you on a picturesque voyage across the Gironde from Lamarque to Blaye, a wonderful old town with a majestic fortress by Vauban, the greatest of French military architects. Nearby St-Emilion is a UNESCO World Heritage site, one of the most exquisite towns in France and the center of the second major wine area, with its share of Grands and Premiers Crus. Finally, to the south of Bordeaux lies the region of Graves, where wines such as the incomparable Sauternes, Château d’Yquem, have been produced on the gravelly hillsides since the Middle Ages.

The climate of the Bordelais is temperate, with hot summers and mild, wet winters. The French holiday month of August is best avoided, with ideal times for a visit being May/June and September/October.