The concept of leisure travel in the contemporary sense evolved in the Côte d'Azur back in the 1920s. Previously, affluent travelers undertook the “Grand Tour” to acquire a veneer of cultural sophistication, or visited the Swiss Alps for the sake of their health, but no one honestly thought to spend an extended period of time indulging solely in the pleasures of relaxing and sun worshipping.
After World War I, however, this new trend gathered momentum, thanks to celebrities such as Coco Chanel, who came to the shockingly controversial conclusion that she looked more attractive with a suntan. At about the same time, Picasso spent the summer with his family in Cap d'Antibes (an area he loved as a painter for its limpid light and vibrant colors, an attraction shared with Cézanne, Renoir and Matisse). And so it began, with the Riviera eventually flourishing into the glittering playground of conspicuous wealth and glamour you see today.
Nowadays, many feel the original lyrical vision of the Côte d'Azur lies in the less developed hinterlands, where one can gaze down from more peaceful aeries to the dramatic but hopelessly congested shoreline, overflowing with summer revelers and million-dollar yachts. Whatever your preference, we recommend a visit during the far less frenetic month of May, when the weather is sublime (hovering around 70F) and the summer lemmings have not yet arrived.
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Château EzaEvocative castle-hotel (formerly the private residence of H.R.H. Prince William of Sweden) clinging to a breathtaking cliff above the Mediterranean in the thousand-year-old fortress hamlet of Eze, midway between Nice and Monte Carlo. |
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Château Saint-Martin & SpaMansion-hotel on 36 hillside acres with panoramic views of French Riviera near Saint-Paul-de-Vence, 30 minutes north of Nice. Forty nicely appointed rooms (garden views) and junior suites (some with private balconies and sea views), plus one-, two- or three-bedroom villas. |
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Grand Hôtel du Cap-FerratRecently renovated palace- hotel surrounded by a 14-acre private park overlooking the Mediterranean at the very tip of Cap Ferrat, 20 minutes east of Nice. |
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Hotel du Cap-Eden RocExceptionally glamorous 19th-century mansion overlooking 22 acres of manicured gardens edged by the Mediterranean, at the tip of the Cap d’Antibes peninsula, midway between Cannes and Nice. |
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La Bastide Saint AntoineManaged by Michelin-starred chef Jacques Chibois, this 16-room (seven suites) hotel sits within a terraced park surrounded by acres of cypress and olive trees near the hillside town of Grasse. |
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La Colombe D'OrEvocative, vine-clad, wood-and-stone auberge is nestled just outside the walls of a scenic14th-century hilltop village. The famous restaurant (once the haunt of renowned artists) is adorned with original works by Picasso, Matisse, Bonnard, Chagall and Dufy and serves wonderful traditional fare. |
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La Réserve de BeaulieuSeductive resort fronting the sea in the fashionable town of Beaulieu-sur-Mer, 30 minutes from Nice airport. |
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La Reserve RamatuelleThis 28-room (19 suites) hotel provides splendid views of the Mediterranean from the pretty village of Ramatuelle, a comfortable 20 minutes from Saint-Tropez. |
Located in an unspoiled medieval village, Bruno Cirino’s wonderful restaurant has elegant dining rooms spilling out onto a sunny terrace. The Mediterranean cuisine is essentially French, but draws on Italian, Spanish and Greek culinary traditions. Typical dishes include sea bass with baby clams, and rabbit stew with macaroni and truffles. Cirino loves cooking with the zesty lemons from nearby Menton, and his lemon tart with lemon sorbet and candied lemon peel is outstanding. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays, except in July and August.
It’s not easy to find a good Provençal bistro on the Côte d’Azur, which is why we’re so keen on this simple place in the charming Old Town district of Antibes. Chef Laurent Parrinello turns out some excellent food from a small open kitchen. The menu changes regularly, but dishes such as risotto with baby vegetables, grilled scallops on white beans with tomatoes, and a raspberry-filled puff pastry with fromage blanc sorbet show off his love of seasonal local produce.
Argentine-born chef Mauro Colagreco is a rising star on the Riviera at this dramatically located restaurant with beautiful views over the Mediterranean. Colagreco is a poetic cook who delights in using fresh herbs, vegetables and seasonal fruit in tasting menus that include dishes such as potato foam with cod cheeks and white shrimp, and rack of pork with Swiss chard, baby onions and a sauce vierge (chopped tomato in olive oil).
After cooking at the famous Le Chantecler in Nice and several other well-known tables along the coast, talented chef Alain Llorca has opened an auberge not far from Saint-Paul-de-Vence. The shaded terrace offers fine views of Saint-Paul and the distant Mediterranean, and the menu runs to sophisticated southern French country dishes such as zucchini flowers stuffed with mushrooms; lobster risotto; and rotisserie-roasted duck breast.
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