Husband-and-wife team Agata Parisella and Romeo Caraccio fuse contemporary cuisine with venerable Roman traditions. Dishes include ravioli filled with braised oxtail; simple yet delicious spaghetti with grated Pecorino cheese and black pepper; Mediterranean scorpion fish with a potato foam and sea urchins; and rich braised veal cheek with a parsnip purée.
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Rome
Overview
From Andrew Harper
Perhaps the most extraordinary thing about the Eternal City is its historical continuity. The Ponte Fabricio, which spans the Tiber to the Isola Tiberina, dates from 62 B.C. and remains in daily use. And 2,000 years after it was built, the Pantheon still has the world’s largest unreinforced concrete dome. Rome is particularly beautiful during the so-called “ottobrate,” from mid-September to the end of October. High summer is hot and disagreeable, and the Romans mostly head for the seaside. The best introduction to the city is still “The Companion Guide to Rome” by Georgina Masson, first published in 1965.
Hotels
All recommended hotels in Rome
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La Posta VecchiaRestored 17th-century villa (once owned by J. Paul Getty) in a 15-acre park overlooking the Mediterranean. Salons/dining room and 19 guest quarters are adorned with priceless paintings and antiques. |
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Casa MANNIExceptionally attractive penthouse apartment on the top floor of a 17th-century palazzo, just five minutes’ walk from the Pantheon. |
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Hotel EdenElegant turn-of-the-century 121-room hotel near the Via Veneto and the Spanish Steps. Lodgings feature classic furnishings, ample windows and marble baths, some with separate tubs and showers. |
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Hotel Hassler RomaLegendary hotel in a turn-of-the-century palace located atop the Spanish Steps, a short walk from the Via Condotti, Rome’s most fashionable shopping street. A charming staff enhances the hotel’s intimate Old World atmosphere. |
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Portrait SuitesStylish 14-suite townhouse hotel owned by the Ferragamo family and situated adjacent to the Spanish Steps. Accommodations offer clean, modern design, luxurious baths and well-equipped galley kitchens. |
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Residenza Napoleone IIITwo opulent suites housed within the spectacular 16th-century Palazzo Ruspoli. |
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Rocco Forte Hotel de RussieStylish hotel near the Spanish Steps and lovely Piazza del Popolo. The 122 high-tech rooms and suites are done in pastel hues with an appealing mix of classic and contemporary furnishings, and feature marble mosaic baths. |
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The Inn At The Roman ForumEnchanting 12-room hideaway in a 15th-century mansion on a quiet cul-de-sac adjoining Trajan’s Forum, within walking distance of the Coliseum and the Corso. |
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Villa Spalletti TrivelliElegant 12-room hotel within a stone mansion near the Quirinale presidential palace. Public areas include an antique-filled drawing room and library. |
Dining
All recommended restaurants in Rome
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AGATA E ROMEO
Via Carlo Alberto 45
Rome
00185
Italy
US$110
COLLINE EMILIANE
Conveniently located near the Piazza Barberini, this small, friendly, family-run place specializes in the cooking of Bologna and Emilia- Romagna, the city and region rated by most Italians as having the country’s best food. The homemade pastas are outstanding. Among the tempting main courses are braciola di maiale (breaded and fried pork rolls stuffed with cheese and ham) and a luscious giambonnetto (veal roast) with sautéed potatoes.
Via Avignonesi 22
Rome
00187
Italy
US$60
HOSTARIA GLASS
After discovering that her true love was cooking, not law, Cristina Bowerman studied and ran a catering company in Austin, Texas, before returning to her native Italy and taking over the kitchen at this handsome restaurant in the delightful Trastevere district. In a city that is notably conservative when it comes to food, Bowerman has won a reputation for superb dishes such as her signature raviolini filled with a cream made with Parmesan that’s been aged for 60 months, or mezzaluna filled with amatriciana sauce. Watch for her lamb cooked with sumac and cranberries on a bed of quinoa, lentils and almonds; or grilled scallops with yellow potatoes in prosciutto consommé. And don’t miss the passion fruit cream with popcorn ice cream for dessert. Excellent wine list.
Vicolo Dè Cinque 58
Rome
00153
Italy
US$140
HOSTERIA DEL PESCE
Owned by fish merchants from Terracina (on the coast south of Rome), this splendid seafood restaurant near the Piazza Farnese features dazzling displays of every conceivable Mediterranean fish. Look for specialties such as gambero rosso (red shrimp) and arragosta (the local spiny lobster).
Via di Monserrato 32
Rome
00186
Italy
US$100
IL CONVIVIO TROIANI
The three Troiani brothers temper their culinary imaginations with respect for Roman tradition. Several dining rooms (one frescoed and another hung with classical oil paintings) provide memorable settings for the refined gastronomy. Among the signature dishes are linguini with a red mullet ragout, and casserole of roasted pigeon with bay leaves, potato tart and blood orange sauce. Closed Sundays.
Vicolo dei Soldati 31
Rome
00186
Italy
US$100
IL PAGLIACCIO
Anthony Genovese, who formerly worked at the Tokyo branch of Florence’s Enoteca Pinchiorri, is one of the most innovative chefs in Rome, and this stylish place offers an eclectic menu of Italian classics and fusion food, including scallops with barley, artichokes and macadamia nuts; tortelli pasta with suckling pig in a spicy tomato sauce; and braised beef with beets and potatoes.
Via dei Banchi Vecchi 129a
Rome
00186
Italy
US$100
IMAGO
Superb views over Rome and excellent modern Italian cooking have made this restaurant on the top floor of the Hassler hotel one of the most stylish in the city. Try dishes such as fusilloni with quail carbonara, and a sea bass fillet cooked in lemongrass salt and wedge-shell broth with fennel seeds.
Hotel Hassler Roma, Piazza Trinita dei Monti 6
Rome
00187
Italy
US$150
L'ARCANGELO
Even among food-savvy Romans, this remains a bit of a secret. The interior looks like the classic trattoria, albeit a refined one, with ochre walls hung with old prints. The food is first-class, with dishes such as fresh-made chitarra pasta with marinated anchovies and fried artichokes, and main courses like a variation on a classic Roman dish of steamed salt cod with a purée of broccoli and warm ricotta infused with cocoa beans. Ask for recommendations from the interesting wine list, which is full of selections from Italy’s smaller producers.
Via Giuseppe Giaocchinio Belli 59
Rome
00193
Italy
$65
LA ROSETTA
Not far from the Piazza Navona, this is one of the best seafood restaurants in Rome. Try the linguine with lobster and prawns, and then maybe a tranche of turbot with a saffron sauce, served with pumpkin fondant.
Via della Rosetta 8-9
Rome
00186
Italy
US$110
PIPERNO
Situated in the former Jewish ghetto, this charming and informal spot is famous for its carciofi alla giudia (fried artichokes, “Jewish style”). Also try any of the wonderful dishes with fresh-made pasta, the fritto misto vegetariano, and the first-rate stuffed zucchini blossoms. Tables spill out into the quiet piazza, which provides a magical setting in summer. Closed Mondays.
Via Monte de’Cenci 9
Rome
00186
Italy
US$60
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