This is among our favorites in Dublin. The interior is a collection of beautiful rooms, all decorated with striking artwork. The “Chefs Table,” with its ringside view of the kitchen, has been particularly well-received since its inception in 2009. Chef Ross Lewis cooks in an inventive, contemporary style that relies on the marvelous Irish larder but draws on the flavors of other cuisines. For example, a butter-poached cod comes with lobster and violet artichokes dressed with a spider-crab mayonnaise. Look for meat dishes such as the slow-cooked shoulder of Connemara lamb with carrots cooked in honey and black pepper with a pickled garlic jus. And for dessert, try the malted banana cream with peanut butter brittle, hazelnut crumble and butter ice cream.
CONTACT OUR TRAVEL EXPERTS (800) 375-4685 | (630) 734-4610
Traveling the World in Search
of Truly Enchanting Places
Ireland
Overview
From Andrew Harper
Following the collapse of the Roman Empire, higher learning was preserved in Ireland, in contrast to elsewhere in Europe during the Dark Ages. This led to a golden age of metalworking, sculpture, jewelry and manuscript illumination (including treasures such as the Book of Kells). The 20th century saw another cultural flowering: Ireland produced four winners of the Nobel Prize in Literature — George Bernard Shaw, W. B. Yeats, Samuel Beckett and Seamus Heaney — plus James Joyce, the father of literary modernism. Today, Ireland has a population of approximately six million people, of whom one million live in Dublin.
CLIMATE: The country’s weather is mild and variable. The west coast is wetter, cloudier and cooler in summer than the remainder of Ireland, which is typified by Dublin. Consistent rainfall is responsible for the Emerald Isle’s astonishingly verdant landscape. However, there is no time of year when fine weather can be guaranteed. Travelers should come prepared for rain, and regard a sunny day as a delightful and unexpected treat.
TIME: Five hours ahead of New York (EST).
CURRENCY: Euro(€).Fluctuating rate valued at €1.00=US$1.30 as of December 2012.
U.S. EMBASSY: Dublin, Tel. 1-668-8777.
DIRECT DIAL CODES: To phone hotels and restaurants in Ireland, dial 011 (international access) + 353 (Ireland code) + city code and local numbers in listings.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS: Passport. Visit www.travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, www.cdc.gov
GENERAL INFORMATION: Visit discoverireland.com before your trip.
Hotels
All recommended hotels in Ireland
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Mount JulietManor house-hotel and sporting resort beside the River Nore, 30 minutes north of Waterford. The 1,500-acre walled estate encompasses formal gardens, an equestrian center and a Jack Nicklaus signature golf course. |
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Ballyfin DemesneRecently restored 1826 Regency mansion, widely regarded as one of the architectural gems of Ireland and now owned by Chicago businessman Fred Krehbiel. |
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The Mustard Seed at Echo LodgeClassic 19th-century parochial house converted to a country house hotel/culinary retreat by chef-owner Dan Mullane. |
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Ashford CastleImposing castle-hotel in a 350-acre park on the shores of Lough Corrib. Battlements incorporate the remnants of a 13th-century castle. |
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Cromleach Lodge Country House Hotel & Ciunas SpaContemporary retreat overlooking Lough Arrow, 15 miles southeast of Sligo. Fifty-seven large guest quarters (no A/C) offer soothing views. |
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Dunbrody Country House HotelGeorgian manor secluded amid 300 acres of parkland on the scenic Hook Peninsula. Twenty-two traditional accommodations; request one of the suites in the newer garden wing. |
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Marlfield HouseRegency manor house amid 35 acres of gardens and woodlands, 90 minutes south of Dublin. |
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Four Seasons DublinElegant 197-room Georgian-style hotel adjacent to the Royal Dublin Society’s historic show grounds, 10 minutes by car from the city center. |
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The Merrion HotelGracious 142-room hotel (19 suites) occupying four beautifully restored Georgian townhouses in a fashionable downtown district. |
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Castle Leslie EstateImpressive granite and red stone Baronial 19th-century castle on 1,000-acre estate adjacent to the village of Glaslough. |
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Dining
All recommended restaurants in Ireland
CHAPTER ONE
18-19 Parnell Square
Dublin
1
Ireland
Four courses, US$85; six-course tasting menu, $105; six-course Kitchen Table menu, US$108
FORTYONE
Although Residence Members Club is a private establishment, its superb restaurant is now open to the public. Set on St. Stephen’s Green, it provides an oasis of tranquility in the bustling city. Chef Graham Neville oversees the appealing menu. Look for satisfying dishes such as the starter of roasted Dublin Bay prawns with sweet corn in a rich truffle emulsion, and main courses like roasted breast of duck glazed with honey and black pepper, served with figs.
41 St. Stephen’s Green
Dublin
Ireland
US$90; five-course tasting menu, US$103
L’ECRIVAIN RESTAURANT
The interior of L'Ecrivain is particularly striking, with a cathedral ceiling, a white wood staircase to an upper level, a subtly striped carpet, tables set with crisp white linens and sparkling glassware, a backlit wall of Mackintosh-esque glass panels and an accent wall of deep red. Chef- owner Derry Clarke trained in classical French cooking, but he has created an innovative menu that can feature dishes such as a terrine of skate with almond milk, fresh almonds and brown shrimp; turbot with roasted Jerusalem artichokes, leeks and trumpet mushrooms; and venison with roasted pumpkin, walnuts and a juniper sauce.
109a Lower Baggot Street
Dublin
2
Ireland
Tasting menu, US$117
ONE PICO
Presiding over a mini-empire of well-regarded restaurants, chef-owner Eamonn O’Reilly has become one of the capital’s most prominent chefs. Tucked away on a quiet lane just off St. Stephen’s Green, One Pico is a handsome place with tawny walls and flattering lighting. O’Reilly is known for techniques rooted in the French tradition. However, he relies heavily on Irish produce. Look for starters such as the langoustine risotto, a fine dish of sweet Dublin Bay prawns with truffle foam, sweet peas and sorrel; and the seared foie gras enlivened with fig jam and chutney with toasted almonds and cherries. Main courses might include plump scallops from West Cork, pan-seared and served with rich pork belly and cauliflower purée, Bramley apples and a jus of cider and sage; and the perfectly roasted loin and rack of lamb as well as a little pithivier of minced braised shoulder with an artichoke, zucchini and basil purée.
5-6 Molesworth Place, Schoolhouse Lane
Dublin
2
Ireland
US$75
RESTAURANT PATRICK GUILBAUD
The “modern classic cuisine using Irish produce in season” at this art-filled restaurant has earned it an international reputation. The menu abounds with appealing dishes such as the starter of pea tortellini with crisp chicken in a truffle dressing. Among the fish courses, the Atlantic salmon is served with a cucumber chutney, broad beans and red sorrel. And the crispy slow-cooked pork with wonderful complementary flavors of apple, star anise and licorice is a masterpiece. A meal might conclude with a selection of Ireland’s superb farmhouse cheeses.
21 Upper Merrion Street (Next to the Merrion Hotel)
Dublin
2
Ireland
Two courses, US$128; three courses, US$158; four courses, US$195
THE WINDING STAIR
Housed on the somewhat unfashionable north shore of the River Liffey by the iconic Ha’penny Bridge, this charming place is reached by a twisting staircase above a bookstore of the same name. Inside, you will find a classic loft space with high ceilings, bare wood floors, big windows, bentwood chairs and uncovered café tables. The food is rooted in traditional Irish dishes and inspired by ingredients from the best producers. Starters could include the wonderful fish plate with a selection of artisanal products from the country’s finest smokehouses; a main course might be the char-grilled Hereford sirloin with onions and garlic butter. For dessert, the bread-and-butter pudding with whiskey sauce is tops. The wine list is eclectic, with daily recommendations and wines by the glass posted on a blackboard. Given its location, this is a particularly good spot for lunch.
40 Ormond Quay
Dublin
1
Ireland
Prix fixe, US$65
THORNTON’S
Set in The Fitzwilliam Hotel, Thornton’s has large windows with wonderful views of St. Stephen’s Green. Inside, the dining room is a stylish, contemporary space with high ceilings, cream walls and oversize photographs taken by chef Kevin Thornton for his book “Food for Life,” depicting many of the dishes on the menu. Thornton’s food is French-inspired but employs the fine produce of Ireland. Look for starters such as Dublin Bay prawns with a rich prawn bisque and a sabayon sauce with truffles. Among the main courses, consider the milk-fed Wicklow lamb with glazed turnips, garlic and crisp pommes frites. End with the pillowy prune and Armagnac soufflé with pear sorbet.
128 St. Stephen’s Green
Dublin
2
Ireland
Three courses, US$99; five courses, US$117; eight courses, US$155
TOWN BAR & GRILL
This lively trattoria-style Dublin favorite is set below a wine shop just off St. Stephen’s Green. The food has evolved from inflected Italian to Irish modern. Look for a starter terrine of chicken and truffles with horseradish, pickled vegetables and tarragon oil. Among the main courses, the rabbit loin wrapped in bacon with polenta, chanterelles and crispy sage is well worth considering. For dessert, watch for the good selection of Irish cheeses. The convivial atmosphere is enhanced by the helpful staff, who provide fine advice on the extensive wine list, which emphasizes Italy, along with good selections from the Napa Valley.
21 Kildare Street
Dublin
2
Ireland
US$67
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I was looking for information and recommendations on our upcoming trip to Ireland in July. We will be traveling with our sons 19 and 17 years old. We are flying in and out of Shannon. We are will be in Ireland a total of 8 nights. Does anyone have any ideas? My entire family loves sports and history and is not interested in the arts. Thanks,Lynne C.
Dear Lynne,
We have a number of Travel Advisors in the Europe Department who have traveled to that area, and they would be happy to assist with planning a trip for you and your family. Western Ireland is particularly rich in golf, walking, hiking and fishing opportunities, as well as major historic sights.
To discuss some ideas, feel free to contact the Travel Office at (800) 375-4685, (630) 734-4610 or reservations@andrewharper.com.
Best Regards,
The Travel Office
We are going to Ireland for a week in May on a driving vacation. Any suggestions?
Hello,
For a respite during your driving tour, you might consider a night or two at the delightful Ballymaloe House near Cork. I took a short cooking lesson from the charming Darina Allen, Ireland's best-known cook, the last time I was there and enjoyed it very much.
Regards,
Andrew Harper
The Ring of Kerry is wonderful. You can plow through it in a day, but I would break it up with an overnight.
Dear Ms. Berger,
That's wonderful! Ireland is an absolutely gorgeous country with friendly people and, nowadays, excellent food.
Without knowing your goals for the trip or where you're planning on starting/finishing, we can only give you very general advice. The most important thing we can tell you is that it takes longer than you think to get from place to place. The distances may not be all that long, but because there are blessedly few freeways, the driving is not necessarily fast.
Keep this in mind as you're planning your itinerary, and don't attempt to cover the entire island. A week is a short time, and it's important to not try and pack too much in. If you're flying into/out of Shannon, just stick to the western side. If Dublin is your gateway, keep to the east. If you are indeed flying into one and out of the other, the southerly route tends to be the most popular.
If you are staying at Harper-recommended hotels, you will also want to be sure to leave time to relax and enjoy the properties. Almost all recommended hotels in Ireland have beautiful grounds, spas, lounges, etc., and you will regret it if you don't allow some time to experience them.
With more information about your interests and travel style, we can give you more specific recommendations. Feel free to contact the Travel Office for travel planning assistance at (800) 375-4685, (630) 734-4610 or reservations@andrewharper.com.
Best Regards,
The Travel Office