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Scandinavia

Scandinavia

Overview

From Andrew Harper

Scandinavia comprises the monarchies of Denmark, Norway and Sweden, though the other Nordic countries of Finland, Iceland and the Faroe Islands, are often included when referring to the region as a historical and cultural entity. The Scandinavian Peninsula is surprisingly varied, encompassing harsh tundra, mountain ranges and rolling grasslands, and extends well north of the Arctic Circle. Not surprisingly, the cities of Copenhagen, Stockholm and Oslo are found in the more temperate southern region.

Scandinavia has curiously few luxury hotels outside its capital cities, but its dramatic glaciated landscapes and Arctic wildlife sanctuaries retain broad appeal. Fjord cruises along the western coast of Norway and polar bear trips to the Arctic island of Spitsbergen are very popular. The region is also ideal for a leisurely driving tour, either through the pretty and peaceful countryside of Denmark and southern Sweden or the picturesque republics of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania.

Apart from an unspoiled landscape and a pristine coastline, Scandinavia offers clean, safe cities of great historical interest. Copenhagen is arguably the most appealing and stylish of them all, with handsome cobbled squares and copper-roofed townhouses complemented by elegant modern architecture. Numerous fine restaurants serve delicious cuisine employing superb local fish and produce. Since 2000, Copenhagen has been connected to southern Sweden by the five-mile-long Oresund Bridge. The equally attractive city of Stockholm lies 380 miles, or seven hours’ drive, to the northeast. The summer months bring almost continual daylight (Stockholm lies just south of the 60th parallel, while New York sits just above the 40th), which makes for lively strolling in the cities.

Hotels

All recommended hotels in Scandinavia

Copenhagen, Denmark
Nimb Hotel
Nimb Hotel

Elegant 14-room boutique hotel within a refurbished century- old Moorish-style structure facing the famed Tivoli Gardens, near the major shopping district.

Falsled, Denmark
Falsled Kro
Falsled Kro

Cozy and rustic 16th-century inn set above a charming harbor on the pastoral island of Funen, one hour from Copenhagen Airport.

Countrywide, Finland
Hotel Kamp
Hotel Kamp

Lavish traditional 179-room hotel, located opposite Esplanade Park in the city’s principal upscale shopping area. The property first opened in 1887 and was meticulously restored before reopening in 1999.

Oslo, Norway
Hotel Continental

Family-run hotel with a fine art collection including works by Edvard Munch. The 155 rooms are individually decorated in a combination of classical and contemporary styles; some offer views toward the harbor and the fjord.

Stockholm, Sweden
Ett Hem
Ett Hem

Exceptionally congenial 12-room hideaway in a 1910 art nouveau mansion set within a brick-walled garden in the city’s quiet Lärkstaden district. 

Grand Hotel Stockholm
Grand Hotel Stockholm

Landmark hotel at the edge of the harbor. The 300 individually decorated rooms and suites are both traditional and contemporary in style.

Lydmar Hotel
Lydmar Hotel

Stylish 46-room boutique hotel next door to the National Museum on Stockholm’s harborside promenade, in a five-story 1829-vintage structure that once housed part of the museum’s archive.

Villas

All recommended villas in Scandinavia

Countrywide, Norway
Villa Sortland

Oslo

Dining

All recommended restaurants in Scandinavia

Den Gyldene Freden

This cozy traditional Swedish restaurant in medieval Gamla Stan is a perfect address for anyone who wants to sample local specialties such as herring with egg, butter and almonds; Swedish meatballs with lingonberries, cucumbers and cream sauce; and lemon meringue pie. The wood-floored dining room has an old-fashioned charm, service is courtly and the wine list is excellent.

Österlånggatan 51
Stockholm 111 31
Sweden
Three-course menu, US$90.
Frantzen-Lindeberg

This restaurant boasts two Michelin stars, and is one of the city’s most sought- after tables. Run by chefs Björn Frantzén and Daniel Lindeberg, the intimate white dining room has sleek furniture and modern art on the walls. Seasonal produce stars on tasting menus that include dishes such as truffled pumpkin soup; scallops with smoked cauliflower; poached cod with tomato marmalade, olive tapenade and white beans; veal cooked sous-vide (in a sealed pouch) for three days and served with truffle jus and onion cream; and sublime desserts like citrus panna cotta on poppy seed pound cake with espresso ice cream.

Lilla Nygatan 21
Stockholm 111 28
Sweden
US$135
Gastrologik

A generation of young chefs is creating a sophisticated New Swedish cuisine. The best place to experience their work is at recently opened Gastrologik, in the city’s Ostermalm district. The intimate spot is the creation of Executive Chef Jacob Holmström and baker Anton Bjuhr. The daily tasting menu is a suite of surprises. What is consistent, however, is the use of local seasonal produce, a hallmark of the New Swedish cooking, as seen in dishes such as plump oysters with fermented cucumber, and braised oxtail with beer gelée and dried beetroot. Odd as these may sound, they’re delicious, which is why reservations are required well in advance.

Artillerigatan 14
Stockholm 11451
Sweden
Three-course tasting menu, US$115; six courses, US$160.
Geranium

With a striking modern dining room of white walls, charcoal banquettes and a dark plank floor overlooking the leafy Faelledparken (“Common Gardens”), Geranium offers intriguing New Scandinavian cuisine (a cooking style that attempts to use only ingredients native to the region). The creative menu by chefs Rasmus Kofoed and Søren Ledet changes with the seasons, but runs to dishes such as monkfish with mussel jelly, mussel juice, and herbs and flowers from a local beach; venison with smoked bacon, beets, mushrooms and wild herbs; and elderberry jelly for dessert. As a further expression of their commitment to healthful gastronomy, an organic vegetarian menu is also offered.

Per Henrik Lings Allé 4
København 2100
Denmark
US$130
Ida Davidsen

Smørrebrød, or open-faced sandwiches topped with a variety of delicious garnishes, are a Danish passion. Ida Davidsen is locally famous for serving the best of these quick eats. Try the smoked salmon with lungfish caviar, or maybe the “Hans Christian Andersen,” named for the famous children’s writer and piled high with liver pâté, bacon and tomatoes. This place is ideal for lunch.

Store Kongensgade 70
København 1264
Denmark
US$35
Kodbyens Fiskebar

This seafood restaurant in the unlikely venue of an old slaughterhouse pulls a fashionable crowd with an outstanding menu of dishes by chef-owner Anders Selmer, who previously cooked at the city’s famous Noma restaurant. Relaxed and casual, it’s an ideal place to sample appealing dishes such as pollack ceviche with finely sliced radishes, or cod steak with a beurre blanc. An excellent selection of oysters and other fresh shellfish is also available.

Flæsketorvet 100, Vesterbro
København 1711
Denmark
US$65
Matsalen

Located in the Grand Hotel, chef Mathias Dahlgren’s two-star restaurant occupies a beautiful light-filled dining room with dove-gray walls, mushroom velvet banquettes and parquet floors. The much-lauded Dahlgren changes his menu daily, but you can expect creative new Nordic dishes that use the best seasonal local produce, such as cured salmon with apple, cucumber and horseradish; porter-braised ox cheek with purée of pickled cucumber and fried onion; or lamb and truffles with roasted Jerusalem artichokes.

Södra Blasieholmshamnen 6
Stockholm 111 48
Sweden
US$100
Mielcke & Hurtigkarl

Located in a pretty 18th-century pavilion in the Royal Danish Horticultural Society’s Gardens, this fashionable restaurant has a whimsical modern décor and serves excellent contemporary Danish cooking. At lunch, the menu highlights the best Scandinavian shellfish, while at dinner, an offbeat and inventive prix-fixe menu is presented. This runs to dishes such as monkfish foie gras, smoked scallops with onion and coconut, and venison prepared two ways. The food is fascinating, but best suited to the gastronomically adventurous.

Frederiksberg Runddel 1
Frederiksberg 2000
Denmark
US$80
Noma

Tucked into an old warehouse on the Christianshavn docks, this smart, minimalist restaurant uses only Scandinavian/Arctic ingredients. Chef René Redzepi’s innovative “modern Danish” fare features delights such as filet of Greenland musk ox; pickled skate and black pudding with an elderberry and foamed mussel sauce; and hare and poached pear with walnuts and verbena. Closed Sundays.

Strandgade 93
København 1401
Denmark
US$60
Rolfs Kök

Chef Johan Jureskog’s cozy, casual bistro is one of the most popular restaurants in Stockholm. (This is where the city’s chefs come on their nights off for its cosmopolitan comfort food.) In addition to classics such as escargots and steaks, the menu also offers more inventive dishes, including ox cheeks in red wine sauce with truffled mashed potatoes, and elk-and-foie-gras Wellington. The long bar is ideal for solo dining.

Tegnérgatan 41
Stockholm 111 61
Sweden
US$70

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