This light, airy restaurant with a beautiful terrace is felicitously located next to one of Istanbul’s great but relatively unsung sights, the Kariye Museum, a former church with the finest Byzantine mosaics in the world. The kitchen is dedicated to preserving the recipes of the Ottoman Empire. I enjoyed a wonderful variation on dolmas, the grape leaves stuffed with a mix of rice, minced sour cherries, onions and pine nuts cooked in cinnamon-infused olive oil. For my main course, I opted for kirde kebap, sautéed diced lamb and vegetables served on flatbread with yogurt.
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Traveling the World in Search
of Truly Enchanting Places
Turkey
Overview
From Andrew Harper
The eastern Mediterranean is one of the most culturally intriguing areas of the world. Two thousand years ago, western Turkey was home to the Ionian Greeks, and some of the most impressive ruins of classical cities, such as Pergamum and Ephesus, are to be found there. But more than anywhere else, the glorious city of Istanbul embodies this historical complexity. The Turkish capital, Ankara, is a place of relatively little interest aside from the remarkable Anatolian Civilizations Museum, with its stunning collection of Hittite artifacts. Visitors may also wish to catch the hourly changing of the honor guard at the Atatürk Mausoleum, where the founder of modern Turkey is interred.
CLIMATE: Turkey is mainly dry, with cold winters and hot summers. The weather is more moderate around Istanbul, with the most temperate areas being the western and southern coasts of Anatolia (see Izmir).
TIME: Seven hours ahead of New York (EST).
CURRENCY: Most recommended hotels quote rates in euros (€). Fluctuating rate valued at €1.00 = US$1.30 as of December 2012.
U.S. EMBASSY: Ankara, Tel. (312) 455-5555. There are also consulates in Istanbul, Tel. (212) 335-9000, and Adana, Tel. (322) 346-6262.
DIRECT DIAL CODES: To phone hotels and restaurants in Turkey, dial 011 (international access) + 90 (Turkey code) + city code and local numbers in listings.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS: Passport and visa. Visit www.travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, www.cdc.gov
GENERAL INFORMATION: Visit www.tourismturkey.org before your trip.
Hotels
All recommended hotels in Turkey
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AmanruyaElegant resort with 36 stone-clad Pool Terrace Cottages set in a hillside olive grove above a bay and sheltered beach on the Aegean coast, 10 minutes from Bodrum. |
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Kempinski Hotel Barbaros BayStylish 173-room resort overlooking the Aegean, about eight miles from Bodrum. Guest quarters (each with private balcony or terrace) come with floor-to-ceiling windows and casual but comfortable furnishings. |
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A'jia HotelTen-room, six-suite hotel set in a romantic 19th-century mansion on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus, 40 minutes by taxi from the city center. |
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Ciragan Palace Kempinski IstanbulStylish 313-room hotel incorporating the restored palace of the last Ottoman sultans, on the shores of the Bosphorus. |
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Four Seasons Istanbul at SultanahmetRefined 65-room boutique hotel in the heart of the old city, a short stroll from Topkapi Palace, Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. |
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Four Seasons Istanbul at the BosphorusRestored 19th-century palace converted to house 170 bright and airy guest rooms and suites, a quarter of which have views across the sea to the shoreline of Asia. |
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Hotel Les OttomansRomantic 10-suite hotel in 1790s mansion with sublime Bosphorus views, 30 minutes from city center. Opulent accommodations combine Ottoman décor with modern amenities. |
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Park Hyatt Istanbul - Macka PalasBoutique hotel in the Maçka Palas, a 1922 art deco building in the chic Nişantaşi neighborhood. The 90 rooms offer baths with limestone floors and walk-in showers. |
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Pera Palace HotelStoried 115-room grande dame hotel in arty Beyo ̆glu district, wonderfully refurbished to preserve period ambience. Grand public rooms are furnished with magnificent Ottoman and European antiques. |
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Sumahan On The WaterAttractive 24-room hotel (11 rooms, 13 suites) in a three-story former raki distillery at the water’s edge on the Asian shore of the Bosphorus. Individually decorated rooms, most with fireplaces, provide water views. |
Dining
All recommended restaurants in Turkey
ASITANE
Kariye Camii Sokak 6
Istanbul
Turkey
US$60
CHANGA
Istanbul’s restaurants are becoming more interesting, with chefs embracing new techniques and ingredients and blending them with the rich traditions of the Turkish kitchen. One of the most notable practitioners is New Zealand chef Peter Gordon, whose restaurant is ensconced on four floors of a 103-year-old townhouse. It offers innovations such as a glass ceiling above the kitchen through which guests can watch Gordon create dishes such as a starter of grilled octopus with a spicy sauce of red miso and nori, and a main course of slow-cooked beef cheeks with Turkish noodles, goat yogurt and a tangy gremolata sauce.
Siraseviler Caddesi 47
Istanbul
Turkey
US$75
HAMDI
With a prime location near the bustling Spice Bazaar and a wonderful view over the Bosphorus, this busy restaurant is a great place to sample some of the kebabs that are a classic of the southeastern Turkish kitchen. The fistikli kebab (ground lamb with pistachios) is especially delicious.
Tahmis Caddesi Kalçin Sokak No. 17, Eminönü
Istanbul
Turkey
US$45
HUNKAR 1950
LocatedinstylishNişantaşi,thisrestaurantspecializesinOttoman cooking and recalls the days when the empire spread from Bulgaria to Tunisia. Recommended dishes include yellow lentil soup with croutons and lemon; baked stuffed eggplant and stuffed cabbage rolls; hünkar be ̆gendi (“the sultan’s delight”), a rich lamb stew with eggplant purée; and lamb shanks with orzo in a light tomato sauce.
Mim Kemal Oke Caddesi 21, Nişantaşi
Istanbul
34367
Turkey
US$60
KHORASANI
Just a short walk from the Hagia Sophia, this excellent restaurant is known for its kebabs, and more. Secure a streetside table and begin with a small selection of mezzes — eggplant salad, hummus and spicy little lentil balls. From among the appealing main courses, consider the outstanding grilled lamb ribs, juicy and rich with flavor and served with grilled tomatoes and peppers.
Divanyolu Caddesi, Ticarethane Sokak 39/41
Istanbul
Turkey
US$55
ULUS 29
This romantic hillside restaurant has stunning views of both bridges over the Bosphorus and is one of the most stylish (and expensive) in Istanbul. Order the Turkish dishes, including standouts such as grilled octopus with white bean and tomato salad, and lamb fillet with smoked eggplant, in preference to the more modish fusion offerings on the menu. It also has one of the best lists of Turkish wines in Istanbul.
Yol SK 1
Istanbul
34660
Turkey
US$90
Is it possible to take a short 1-2 day cruise on a Turkish gulet? Is this a desirable activity? All the trips I see on the internet are for at least 3-4 days, and I have no idea as to a reputable company. What are the boats like? Would we enjoy an overnight experience? Food? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
One or two day outings are possible and can be fabulous...there is tremendous variety in terms of the boats and a smaller more intimate vessle than a gulet suits best for a 1-2 day outing...I have met the President of New Faces, by chance, at The Four Seasons SultanAhmet some years ago...he appears very reliable and trustworthy...BEST point of departure for a 1-2 day outing is from a tiny port town Gocek, near Fethiye easily reached from Dalaman which has daily flights from Ataturk Airport Istanbul, via THY (Turkish Airways)...Though it be tiny, Turkish mariners believe Gocek to be one of Turkey's finest ports...The world's largest yacht (Abramovich, think Chelsea and big money) moors nearby...not for no reason...
Hello,
The Travel Office has a wonderful travel partner in Turkey called New Faces. We have indeed worked with them in the past to arrange for day cruises on gulets as well as overnight experiences.
Some time on a traditional gulet can be great fun, and you can use the gulet to reach otherwise difficult-to-reach archeaological sites, for example. Not all gulets are created equal, however, and it's important to choose your boat with care.
For more information and assistance with arranging a gulet cruise, feel free to contact the Travel Office at (800) 375-4685, (630) 734-4610 or reservations@andrewharper.com.
Best Regards,
The Travel Office