North America

The latest offering from chef Michael White is located in The Setai hotel on Fifth Avenue (White also presides over Marea and Osteria Morini). Ai fiori means “among the flowers,” and this large, tranquil space is bright with floral arrangements that add an air of romance and celebration. The menu changes frequently, but look for pastas such as the luscious Trofie Nero, Ligurian- style squid’s ink pasta, with a pleasantly tangy ragout of squid and scallops. The equally outstanding main courses may include laurel-crusted cod with brandade, black truffles and porcini; or an outstanding veal chop with new potatoes, prosciutto and sage. There are more than two dozen wines by the glass.

In this atmospheric tapas restaurant with its charming pierced-tin lanterns and appetizing hung hams, chef Jose Garces presents dishes that honor the Spanish tradition. The menu changes with the market, but look for charcuterie such as Serrano ham and chorizo Pamplona; cheeses like aged manchego served with truffled lavender honey, and Garrotxa with a garlic dulce de leche; and classic little plates such as clams and chorizo, ham croquettes, garlic shrimp and more. Heartier appetites will be satisfied by dishes such as roasted pork with white beans, arugula and orange; and a classic paella Valenciana.

At this beautiful restaurant in a renovated home chef/owner Gerry Klaskala inventively combines fine local ingredients with the best of regional styles. Starters might include crisp crab cakes with green apple, walnuts and an Asian mustard vinaigrette. Main courses could be mountain trout with lobster smashed potatoes, young squash, pea purée and shiitake mushrooms; and short ribs with cipollini onions, carrots, shiitake mushrooms and truffle whipped potatoes. The extensive wine list has 19 offerings by the glass.

This wonderful Italian restaurant is set in a townhouse on a quiet side street in Greenwich Village. The dynamos behind its success are chef Mario Batali and partner Joe Bastianich, whose empire includes several other top New York spots. The downstairs is lively; upstairs is more subdued and is one of the most attractive dining rooms in the city. Among the antipasti, the warm lamb’s tongue in a vinaigrette with brown beech mushrooms and a three-minute egg is particularly good. It’s hard to choose a favorite from the primi courses, but the beef-cheek ravioli with squab liver and black truffles is a classic. Among the main courses, grilled branzino (a white-fleshed fish) with radishes, olives and lemon-oregano jam is a standout.