Morocco

My husband and I just returned from a short (4 nights only) trip to Morocco.  We did not have time for Essaouria or the Atlas Mountains but very much wanted to visit the two imperial citiese of Morocco before they, like all historical destinations, become completely commercialized for western tourism. 
 
First off, all of the Moroccan people we encountered were absolutely lovely.  Their hospitality, courtesy, and warmth becomes immediately apparent.  With all of the traffic, crowds, commotion, and general hustle and bustle of city life (we toured only Marrakech and Fez during our trip), it was so refreshing and surprising to see that most of the Morrocans are very patient, exceptionally gracious, and have a good sense of humor.  We stayed three nights in Marrakech at the Amanjena resort, which is located in the Palmeraie district, outside of the old Medina area by approximately a 20 minute drive.  Our pavilion was very spacious, beautifully appointed and included an outdoor patio area which was stunning and private.  It is a peaceful oasis with exemplary service and very professional staff.  The staff at Amanjena seemed to anticipate a guest's needs well in advance and we really appreciated being treated so well.  That said, if you plan to stay at Amanjena, be aware that it is a more quiet retreat and that you will not see many other guests - we enjoy this environment but it is not for the more sociable type who desire more interaction with other traveler guests and "resort-activities".   The spa area was incredible and extremely tranquil, with the staff always attending to any small request and offering services without constantly "billing" every item. 
 
The highlight of our Aman stay was the private dinner they arranged as an ANDREW HARPER AMENITY for AH members. OVER THE TOP AND UNBELIEVABLE!!!!  It was detailed as a "private dinner for two in the olive grove" and ended up being commenced with a stone path lit with dozens of candle-lanterns leading toward a big red caidal tent (which could have fit fifty guests for cocktails), with four large outdoor fireplaces, a round low dining table and pillow seats.  On the table were over 50 candles, with silver, linen, china, and crystal.  One waiter was assigned to us and presented course after course of traditional Moroccan fare, accompanied by great music and chandeliers and fresh flowers.  That was ONE IMPRESSIVE ANDREW HARPER AMENITY.   Everything was spectacular and every staff member was gracious. 
 
We went to dinner at Dar Yacout, and we had a sumptious feast and it is a beautiful space.  It was too much food for us, but the service was very good and the dining area very cozy and lush.  One of our best experiences during the daytime was to get to the rooftop at Club Glacier, purchase a beverage (as admission) and sit on the rooftop during the hours of 4 to 6 while the Medina transformed itself into the "night" square, with outdoor food vendors and stalls being set up throughout the square. 
 
Marrakech was great - the souks were exciting especially for a first-timer, and we visited the tannery and various schools and Moroccan "landmarks" and historical sites.  However, I still ended up loving Fez more.  Most of the guide books and travel magazines seem to pitch Marrakech more aggressively than Fez.  My husband and I did not venture into bars and nightclubs in Marrakech, so we do not know if this is part of the allure over Fez for many travelers.  However, in our experience, when comparing the souks, the tannery, the historical sites, and the architecture, along with the contrast between the old city, new city, and the French "quarter", for each city, we preferred Fez much more so over Marrakech.  
 
In Fez, you feel the heartbeat of the people in the old Medina and the culture seems richer there.  We only spent a day and a half in Fez and I wished we had booked more time there than in Marrakech.  The goods, or merchandise, seemed better also.  We had an amazing guide in Fez.  If you want his information, please contact me and I would be happy to share the contact information.  I do not know if posting it outright is permitted on this forum so I will avoid that for now.  A good guide makes all the difference.  Hassan was respectful, knowledgeable, extremely articular, polite, funny, and patient.  He is the type of person you wish you had the privilege of knowing back here at "home."     
 
During our only night in Fez, we stayed at the Riad Fes.  It is a beautiful property and by many accounts, one of the most well appointed one in Fez.  We had amazing gracious kind service and we attribute all of it to a young French gentleman by the name of Laurent - he is one of the "managers" (although he indicated there are no such titles there) there, which is a Relais Chateaux property.  He made sure every single request was addressed, he took care of us as if we were his personal clients, and made arrangements for an exceptional dinner in the courtyard of the riad, among the lemon groves and fountain.  He was formerly with the Tahaa Island Resort in French Polynesia, and he is sure to rise among the stars in the luxury hospitality industry. 
 
Finally, a trip report to Morocco would not be complete without at least some mention of La Mamounia.  I know that Mr. Andrew Harper had his remarks from his visit to the resort recently in his newsletter, and we reviewed them carefully before we decided on staying at Amanjena instead of La Mamounia.   We had made a reservation at Le Marocain, the Moroccan restaurant in the hotel, for our second night.  We could not move the reservation to a better time for us because the hotel indicated that the restaurant was fully booked each night between 7 and 10.  After our crazy huge feast at Dar Yacout, we decided to cancel the reservation altogether and just go for lunch.  We showed up at the gate entrance, and were, in short, dispatched as if we had showed up for the Queen's Coronation in a swimsuit and a beachball.  My husband did have his jeans on (albeit dark ones) but otherwise we were relatively presentable and did not have donkey poo or drool on our shoes or clothing.  The young "Entourage"-like Johnny Drama bouncers at the gate with dark suits and earpieces firmly informed us that La Mamounia had no availability for lunch, poolside bar dining, or dinner at any time during the next 10 days.   Wow.   Impressive.  So that was that.   We'll see how La Mamounia deals with the great unwashed masses once the King's new Royal Mansour Marrakech opens (to be located within the old medina as well).
 
I hope you will love Morocco as much as we did. 
 chayuliu2010-04-14 12:28:06