China

When you finally succumb to the urge for Peking duck, go here. The restaurant may not have the longest pedigree or the most colorful location, but the duck is peerless. Supposedly, the chefs have a secret cooking method that reduces the bird’s fattiness. Whether they do or not, the product is incomparably delicious. The presentation is classic: The duck is deftly sliced and served with the luscious skin, thin pancakes, scallions and hoisin sauce. Reservations are essential.

In a city of superlatives, this is a truly spectacular restaurant with extraordinary views of Victoria Harbour. The interior is filled with carved wood screens, large red lanterns, billowing sheets of silk and oversize bamboo birdcages. The cuisine is that of north China adapted for modern ingredients and techniques (no thickening cornstarch for sauces, or MSG). Start with the delicious pork belly thinly sliced with cucumber in a chili-garlic sauce. Also consider the terrific beggar’s chicken, a superb dish of chicken stuffed with pork slices, mushrooms and Chinese pickles; crispy deboned lamb rib chops, a house specialty; braised beef rib wrapped in lotus leaves; soft-shell crabs in a red chili sauce; and “Dragon Snow,” poached lobster medallions with scrambled egg whites tossed with crab roe. Window seats are highly desirable and at a premium, so book through your hotel concierge.

Located close to the Forbidden City, this restaurant occupies a restored gray-brick courtyard house that blends harmoniously with the surrounding neighborhood. Its interior, however, is an intriguing amalgam of modernist white walls, glass accents and dramatic contemporary Chinese paintings. The innovative menu combines Asian and Western elements. This makes for an eclectic mix that includes dishes such as juniper-scented duck breast in a fig glaze; toasted almond and roasted garlic soup with steamed crab and white grapes; char-grilled wagyu flatiron steak with baby vegetables and a caper-anchovy jam; apricot-stuffed saddle of lamb with green peas, pearl barley and a carrot-Riesling reduction; and for dessert, a sensual lavender crème caramel with sesame meusli. The impressive wine list — a real standout in the city — has more than 600 bottles.

Decorated in a palette of soft colors punctuated by a series of dramatic paintings and specially commissioned ceramic sculptures, this justly celebrated restaurant is noted for its Cantonese dishes and delicious dim sum. Highlights from the menu include sautéed minced pork with pork skin and black beans, baked fresh prawns in a sweetened preserved plum sauce, and spotted garoupa with Yunnan ham in a chicken and pumpkin sauce. While rooted solidly in tradition, this refined cooking offers a whole new level of invention.