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St. Barths

St. Barths

Overview

From Andrew Harper

A dependency of France, this neat, eight-square-mile island lies less than 20 miles from St. Martin. Its population of 5,500 is mostly of Breton descent. The terrain is hilly, but dazzling white beaches skirt the perimeter. The island’s capital, Gustavia, is generally considered to be the prettiest town in the entire Caribbean. Owing to the large number of American visitors, St. Barths has a more cosmopolitan atmosphere than other French islands such as Martinique. Thanks to the enduring French influence, however, its restaurants are excellent and the seafood invariably delicious.

WHEN TO GO : The climate is warm and sunny with little variation in the year-round temperature. The best months to visit are November-June, when low humidity is the norm and daytime temperatures average in the low 80s.

CURRENCY : Euro (€). Fluctuating rate valued at €1.00 = US$1.30 as of March 2012. U.S. currency and major credit cards readily accepted.

U.S. EMBASSY : None. U.S. Embassy is located in Barbados, (246) 227-4399.

DIRECT DIAL CODES : To phone hotels and restaurants in St. Barths, dial 011 (international access) + 590 (St. Barths code) + local numbers in listings.

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS : Passport. Visit travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, cdc.gov.

Hotels

All recommended hotels in St. Barths

Countrywide,
Eden Rock
Eden Rock

Boutique resort atop a small rocky promontory bordered by the pristine white sands of Baie de St-Jean.

Hotel Le Toiny
Hotel Le Toiny

Tranquil all-suite oasis amid colorful gardens overlooking the rugged coastline on the southeastern tip of the island.

Hotel St-Barth Isle De France
Hotel St-Barth Isle De France

Elegant beachfront resort hotel set along the white sands of Anse des Flamands in the northwestern corner of the island.

Dining

All recommended restaurants in Caribbean/Bahamas/Bermuda

BONITO ST. BARTH

Perched on a hill in Gustavia, Bonito has an all-white interior with a raftered hip-roof ceiling, plus an expansive semicircular open-air pavilion with memorable views over the town. (This is a terrific spot for sunset cocktails.) The menu features delicious ceviches, plus fine salads such as an excellent take on the classic Caprese with thick slices of beefsteak tomatoes, chunks of feta and mozzarella, and toasted hazelnuts. The fish is invariably good, a standout being the sliced wahoo in a ponzu sauce with basmati rice, shiitake caps and baby bok choy.

Gustavia
Netherlands Antilles
US$75
LE GAIAC

This elegant open-air terrace restaurant perches on a flower-strewn hillside with panoramas of the neighboring volcanic islands of St. Kitts and Sint Eustatius. Chef Stéphane Mazières oversees one of the finest kitchens in the Caribbean, where he creates a refined and innovative menu that combines French and Creole traditions. Starters, for example, might include plump ravioli filled with a mix of local pumpkin and sea scallops with pistachio and a tangy dash of grated lime, or a delicious salad of king crab, sun-dried tomatoes and freshly grated ginger. Watch for main courses such as a fillet of turbot marinated with thyme, then grilled and served with a tartar of zucchini and oysters, all with a lemongrass emulsion; a black truffle-flecked veal chop baked in a sea-salt crust and served with a veal-truffle jus; or a grilled Black Angus filet with spicy Sichuan pepper and french fries.

Hôtel Le Toiny
Netherlands Antilles
US$100
LE RESTAURANT DES PECHEURS

With minimalist interiors designed by Christian Liaigre, Le Sereno hotel does not greatly appeal to me. However, its restaurant, Le Restaurant des Pêcheurs, certainly does. Airy, tranquil and affording lovely views of the Grand Cul de Sac bay, it offers excellent fresh fish. Start with the superb rendition of a Mediterranean classic, bouillabaisse, here prepared with a variety of reef fish and augmented by a lively rouille. If it’s on the menu, order grilled triggerfish, a welcome departure from the snapper/dorado/tuna trinity that dominates the island’s menus.

Le Sereno Hotel
Netherlands Antilles
US$60
L’ESPRIT DE SALINE

Despite an unassuming exterior beside the road leading to popular Saline Beach, this informal open-air establishment serves some of the most delicious, eclectic food on the island. The chef scours the market daily looking for the best produce, so the menu, which has an Asian cast to it, changes constantly. Dishes might include homemade chicken and shrimp fried spring rolls, a wonderful lobster fricassee flavored with lemongrass and Clément rum from Martinique, and grilled rack of lamb with fresh herbs and lavender. Reservations are a must.

Saline
Netherlands Antilles
US$75
L’ISOLA

There comes a time when all good visitors to St. Barths just do not want another grilled fillet of snapper/dorado/fish du jour — tasty as they may be. This charming spot replaced much-loved PaCrí as the most popular Italian restaurant on the island when it opened in 2008. The whitewashed cottage in Gustavia is fully enclosed and air-conditioned, perfect for a rainy or humid evening. The menu features the traditional dishes of an Italian trattoria, with salads such as refreshing watercress with albacore and cannellini beans, antipasti like prosciutto and mozzarella, pastas such as the delicious house-made ravioli bursting with ricotta and spinach in a tomato sauce, and meat dishes like the delicate veal scaloppini in a bracing lemon sauce.

Gustavia
Netherlands Antilles
US$70
MAYA'S

It’s hard to believe that this charming waterfront restaurant has been drawing diners for more than 25 years. It is a simple affair — just a white pergola with a corrugated metal roof, some strategic lighting and food that reflects St. Barths’ Creole heritage. The team here comprises chef Maya Gurley and her husband, Randy, who runs the front of the house. Start with the best planter’s punch on the island and then the excellent fish soup, Maya’s island answer to the Mediterranean classic. Among the main courses, it’s hard to go wrong with the local grilled fish or the snapper in green curry. If it’s on the menu, don’t miss the coconut tart. If you want to start a conversation, bring up Maya’s: Some love it, some loathe it. We have always thoroughly enjoyed it. Reservations made well in advance are a must in high season.

Gustavia
Netherlands Antilles
US$90
ON-THE-ROCKS

This stylish place enjoys a prime spot on a craggy outcrop overlooking the turquoise waters of Baie de St-Jean. The extensive and inventive menu takes inspiration from cuisines the world overand is under the direction of star chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. Starters might include Gulf shrimp salad with avocado and tomato in a Champagne dressing,anda main coursecould bethe local lobster with garlic butter, basil, lemon and a tangy Thai coleslaw on the side. The view is one of the island’s best, and the bar is a fine place for sunset cocktails.

Eden Rock Hotel
Netherlands Antilles
US$100

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