After cooking at the famous Le Chantecler in Nice and several other well-known tables along the coast, talented chef Alain Llorca has opened an auberge not far from Saint-Paul-de-Vence. The shaded terrace offers fine views of Saint-Paul and the distant Mediterranean, and the menu runs to sophisticated southern French country dishes such as zucchini flowers stuffed with mushrooms; lobster risotto; and rotisserie-roasted duck breast.
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Traveling the World in Search
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France
Overview
From Andrew Harper
Andrew Harper's Paris: A Personal Guide to the Best of the City, a free app for the iPad and iPhone.
France receives more foreign visitors — 82 million annually — than any other country. It is not hard to see why. As well as the most beautiful capital city on earth, it offers tracts of exquisite countryside, Europe’s highest mountain and, of course, some of the world’s finest cuisine (even though many travelers grumble that the general standard of food is not as high as it used to be). Perhaps the most remarkable thing about France is its astonishing variety within a relatively small area. European countries tend to be either northern or southern in character, with the Alps and Pyrenees being the principal dividing lines. France is both: The coast of Pas-de-Calais is just 29 miles from Kent in southern England, while the shores of Provence are part of the warm, classical world of the Mediterranean.
The enduring charms of France are manifest. A typical visit generally includes a stay in Paris (perhaps in a grande dame hotel as well as an intimate Left Bank alternative), followed by a jaunt down into the Loire Valley, Provence or the Riviera. But the options are near endless: a historical pilgrimage to the bleak coastline of Normandy; a stirring drive along the serpentine Alsace wine road; a sunny idyll in Corsica, one of the most pristine and wildly scenic islands in the Mediterranean.
Barge cruises, which travel along a network of linked canals through medieval villages and rolling vineyards, are a particularly appealing and hassle-free way of exploring the French countryside. Other novel approaches to this classic destination include culinary courses, ballooning trips, grape harvest tours and biking vacations. Then again, one could also spend several weeks happily sequestered in a sleepy provincial village.
CLIMATE: Northern and central France are typified by Paris. Monaco is representative of the Côte d’Azur, which enjoys hot, dry summers and cool, rainy winters.
TIME: Six hours ahead of New York (EST).
CURRENCY: Euro (€). Fluctuating rate valued at €1.00 = US$1.20 as of July 2012.
U.S. EMBASSY: Paris, Tel. (1) 43-12-22-22. There are also consulates in Marseille, Tel. (4) 91-54-92-00, and Strasbourg, Tel. (3) 88-35-31-04.
DIRECT DIAL CODES: To phone hotels and restaurants in France or Monaco, dial 011 (international access) + 33 (France code) or 377 (Monaco code) + city code and local numbers in listings.
ENTRY REQUIREMENTS: Passport (valid at least three months beyond end of stay). Visit www.travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, www.cdc.gov
GENERAL INFORMATION: Visit www.franceguide.com or www.visitmonaco.com before your trip.
Hotels
All recommended hotels in France
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La Bastide de MoustiersCharming inn housed by a 17th-century stone farmstead in the peaceful countryside just outside of Moustiers-Sainte- Marie (two hours northeast of Aix near the Gorges du Verdon). |
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Le Couvent des MinimesQuietly elegant hotel housed within a restored 400-year-old limestone convent amid green hills and lavender fields outside the town of Mane, 60 miles east of Avignon. |
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Hotel KStriking modern hotel in a forested valley in the northern Vosges Mountains, complementing light-filled Arnsbourg, the three-star restaurant of celebrated chef Jean-Georges Klein. |
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Le Chateau d IsenbourgHilltop medieval château-hotel overlooking vineyards and the ancient village of Rouffach in a charming corner of the Alsatian wine district. |
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Chateau de BagnolsMagnificently restored medieval château set among vineyards in the quiet Beaujolais countryside, 45 minutes northwest of Lyon. The spectacular 13th-century structure displays conical towers, dry moats and a drawbridge entrance. |
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Georges BlancChef Georges Blanc’s gastronomic enclave, an hour north of Lyon and 12 miles southeast of Mâcon. |
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Hostellerie De LevernoisGourmet sanctuary in a pretty parkland setting with huge cedar trees, formal French gardens and a rushing creek, 10 minutes outside Beaune. |
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Grand HôtelGrand Edwardian property with a pink-and-cream art deco façade overlooking the beach. |
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Hotel du Palais Imperial Resort & SpaSeaside mansion-hotel housed within a lavish red-brick villa in Biarritz built in 1854 by Emperor Napoleon III for his wife, Eugénie. |
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Château Cordeillan-BagesSurrounded by manicured vineyards and housed in an 17th-century former monastery, this handsome modernist property features the innovative cooking of chef Jean-Luc Rocha. |
Dining
All recommended restaurants in France
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RESTAURANT ALAIN LLORCA
350 Route de Saint Paul
La Colle sur Loup
06480
France
US$130
RESTAURANT PIERRE ORSI
With an ornate traditional French décor of oil paintings on ochre walls and lavish floral arrangements, chef Orsi’s stylish restaurant has an old-school elegance. Expect formal service and classic dishes such as lobster salad, foie gras ravioli, lobster with artichokes, and roast pigeon, along with an excellent cheese tray and sumptuous desserts.
3 place Kléber
Lyon
69006
France
US$135
Septime
Though it’s off the beaten track, young chef Bertrand Grébaut’s bistro is worth discovering for his imaginative contemporary French dishes. Grébaut trained with chef Alain Passard at L’Arpège, a background that shows up in starters such as risotto with watercress and sorrel, and main courses like cod steak in a jus de poulet with fennel bulb shavings, or succulent pork rib with radishes and carrots. Friendly service in an attractive, loft-like space and an interesting wine list make this a great choice for casual dining.
80 rue de Charonne (11e)
Paris
75011
France
US$75
Taillevent
A temple of Parisian haute cuisine since 1946, this celebrated power-broking establishment occupies a grand 19th-century townhouse off the Champs-Elysées. Current chef Alain Solivérès presents signature dishes such as boudin of Breton lobster with an emulsion of tarragon and aniseed, and duck’s liver with caramelized fruits and vegetables. Closed weekends and the whole month of August.
15 rue Lamennais (8e)
Paris
75008
France
US$175
Yam’Tcha
Tucked away in a side street near the park created from the old Les Halles de Paris, this charming restaurant has become a hit, thanks to the flavorful, inventive cooking of chef Adeline Grattard. She changes her tasting menu daily, but dishes such as duckling with eggplant, and ginger ice cream with avocado slices and passion fruit reflect her experience working at Paris’ celebrated L’Astrance, as well as a stint in Hong Kong.
4 rue Sauval (1e)
Paris
75001
France
US$70
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Special Offers
Special Offers
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Le Couvent des Minimes Hotel and Spa by l’Occitane - Discovery StayStay four nights and enjoy the proximity to a variety of experiences nearby, such as the life of Cezanne in Aix en Provence, the beauty of Valensole Plateau’s countryside, Moustiers Sainte Marie, Lake Sainte Croix and Southern Luberon, from 902 EUR per person. |
From the Member Community
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Hello:
Can anyone recommend a good, local restaurant near Bonnieux in Provence? I will be entertaining clients and we will stay/eat at Domaine de Capelongue, and one evening i would like something a bit more relaxing, but with a local feel. Any suggestions greatly appreciated!
Peter
Dear Peter,
In Bonnieux, you might consider Le Fournil, a very popular, stylish and laid-back bistro in the middle of the village.
Best Regards,
The Travel Office
Does anyone have any recent experience with hotels/chateaus in the Dordogne? Harper recommends Le Vieux Logis, but what about Château de la Treyne and Château de Mercues? Both seem to have wonderful locations, but the web site for Mercues does not provide much information about their rooms. Thank you. Jim T.
Mr. Harper, We are considering Chateau de la Treyne, but, several posts on Trip Advisor mention less than interested staff and a need for refurbishment. Would you please comment.
Does anyone have experience/recommendations for a barge cruise in France?
Hello,
I very much enjoyed a cruise that I took on the Tango barge on the Canal du Midi several years ago. The cabins were considerably more comfortable and attractive than those on other barges I've seen, the food was excellent and the staff were charming.
More information about the Tango and her sister barge, Fandango, can be found here.
Regards,
Andrew Harper
Hello,
Barging is an absolutely wonderful way to explore France! We frequently assist with planning French barge cruises for Andrew Harper members. In fact, we have two excellent travel partners with whom we work on barge cruises.
Orient-Express features several beautiful barges, and you can currently take advantage of some significant savings for travel this year. You can view the travel value here.
Frontiers offers an even larger selection of barges, ranging in size from four to twelve passengers.
For more information about the different barge options and various regions you can explore, please contact the Travel Office at (800) 375-4685, (630) 734-4610 or reservations@andrewharper.com.
Best Regards,
The Travel Office
Can anyone comment on the Bastide de Moustiers in Moustiers-Ste-Marie?