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Portugal

Portugal

Overview

From Andrew Harper

Portugal is blessed with a diverse landscape and a sun-drenched coastline. The country is split by the Tagus River. The north is chiefly mountainous and indented by steep valleys, whereas the south is a land of rolling plains. Traditional Portuguese architecture is extremely distinctive, especially the highly ornamented Manueline style from the early 16th century. Fish is integral to the country’s cuisine, especially dry cod (bacalhau), grilled sardines and caldeirada, a potato-based fish stew. Wines have been produced in Portugal since the time of the Roman Empire. The country is justly renowned for its pousadas, a chain of state-owned luxury lodgings in historic buildings. It also offers an ever-expanding number of excellent golf courses.

CLIMATE: Portugal has an agreeable climate, with mild winters, and summers that are dry and warm but seldom oppressively hot. The Mediterranean Algarve region is the sunniest, driest and warmest part of the country.

TIME: Five hours ahead of New York (EST).

CURRENCY: Euro (€). Fluctuating rate valued at €1.00 = US$1.30 as of October 2012.

U.S. EMBASSY: Lisbon, Tel. (21) 770-2122.

DIRECT DIAL CODES: To phone hotels and restaurants in Portugal, dial 011 (international access) + 351 (Portugal code) + city code and local numbers in listings.

ENTRY REQUIREMENTS: Passport (valid for three months beyond end of stay). Visit www.travel.state.gov, and for travelers’ health information, www.cdc.gov

GENERAL INFORMATION: Visit www.visitportugal.com before your trip.

Hotels

All recommended hotels in Portugal

Alentejo, Portugal
Pousada Da Rainha Santa Isabel
Pousada Da Rainha Santa Isabel

Restored 13th- century fortress-hotel situated on a scenic hilltop. Grand marble staircase leads to 29 spacious accommodations. Public areas feature tapestries, antique chests, marble pillars and soaring archways.

Pousada Dos Loios
Pousada Dos Loios

Atmospheric inn situated between Evora’s 13th-century cathedral and a well-preserved Roman temple.

Algarve, Portugal
Hotel Quinta Do Lago
Hotel Quinta Do Lago

Golf-oriented resort amid 2,000-acre residential estate. The 141 lodgings offer spacious living areas and scenic balconies.

Coimbra, Portugal
Quinta Das Lagrimas
Quinta Das Lagrimas

Villa-style hotel amid a 20-acre park, 21⁄2 hours north of Lisbon. The 54 comfortable lodgings offer all of the expected amenities. Inlaid furniture and original oil paintings decorate the salons, gallery and paneled library.

Douro Valley, Portugal
Aquapura Douro Valley
Aquapura Douro Valley

Striking hotel on a vine-planted hillside overlooking a sinuous bend in the Douro River, just over an hour from Porto. The property combines a traditional 19th-century manor house and contemporary buildings.

Vidago Palace exterior
Vidago Palace

Charming 70-room hotel in a grand four-story palace built for the king of Portugal but repurposed as a hotel when the country became a republic in 1910.

Lisbon, Portugal
Bairro Alto
Bairro Alto

Stylish 55-room hotel occupying 1845-vintage building in fashionable and atmospheric district. Standard rooms are small, so Superior or Deluxe lodgings are recommended.

Olissippo Lapa Palace
Olissippo Lapa Palace

Lavish 109-room hotel on a lush hilltop overlooking the Tagus River in a quiet residential-embassy district, 10 minutes from downtown.

Palacio Belmonte
Palacio Belmonte

Evocative 10-suite hotel occupying an exquisitely restored 15th-century palace in hillside Alfama district. Each room is individually decorated, but most have hardwood floors and 18th-century azulejos (handpainted tiles).

Lisbon Area, Portugal
Convento de Sao Saturnino
Convento de Sao Saturnino

Intimate hotel created from a ruined hamlet overlooking the Atlantic near the village of Azóia, half an hour from Lisbon.

Dining

All recommended restaurants in Portugal

100 MANEIRAS
Located in the stylish Bairro Alto, this lively restaurant draws a well-heeled crowd for the modern Portuguese dishes of Bosnian-born chef Ljubomir Stanisic. Stanisic creates intriguing tasting menus that change constantly, but run to dishes such as sautéed foie gras in chestnut flour with a Muscatel- pineapple reduction, and pistachio-crusted goat with quinoa.
Rua do Teixeira 35
Lisbon 1200
Portugal
US$100
BELCANTO

After a stint at Tavares, one of the oldest restaurants in Lisbon, brilliant young chef José Avillez moved to Belcanto in early 2012. Located in the heart of the city near the opera house, his restaurant has a sophisticated but relaxed atmosphere. Avillez creates intricate dishes with mysterious names such as “Mergulho no Mar” (“Sea Diving”), which is a succulent composition of sea bass, seaweed and shellfish; or “Paisagem Alentejana” (“Alentejo Landscape”), which just might make you appreciate pig’s feet, since these are deboned and served with a superb coriander sauce. Other dishes not to miss include the excellent partridge escabeche and a clever take on açorda de bacalhau, a Portuguese favorite of salt cod.

Largo de São Carlos 10
Lisbon 1200-410
Portugal
US$100
CANTINHO DO AVILLEZ
Also owned by Avillez, this very popular bistro specializes in hearty Portuguese comfort food, including appealing starters such as black pudding with apple crumble or chicken livers sautéed with onions and Port marmalade, and main courses with seasoning that recalls Portugal’s colonial past — don’t miss the sautéed scallops with Indian spices. The chocolate cake with strawberry ice cream is one of the best desserts in town.
Rua dos Duques de Bragança 7
Lisbon
Portugal
US$65
CASA DA COMIDA
An 18th-century townhouse provides a luxurious setting for one of the city’s loveliest restaurants. Attention to detail and the freshest ingredients produce superlative dishes such as roast kid with aromatic herbs, and stewed pheasant marinated in Port.
Travessadas Amoreiras 1
Lisbon 1250
Portugal
US$80
GAMBRINUS

Diners enjoy some of Lisbon’s finest game and seafood in a masculine atmosphere engendered by paneled walls, stained glass and dark leather chairs. Superb partridge and duck are served with rice in the local style, while the signature seafood dish is sea bass cooked in a tomato sauce with ham, onions and white wine.

Rua das Portas de Santo Antão 25
Lisbon 1150
Portugal
US$95
TASCA DA ESQUINA
Run by Vitor Sobral, a Portuguese food celebrity, this relaxed, friendly, good-value restaurant with large windows is perfect for a casual but delicious meal of Portuguese comfort food. Starters are made for sharing, and among those not to miss are the grilled baby clams and cod fritters, while excellent main courses include tuna with sweet potatoes. There is a wonderful selection of Portuguese cheeses.
Rua Domingos Sequeira 41C
Lisbon 1885
Portugal
US$50

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