Canada

Beautifully situated on False Creek, this dramatic restaurant has two-story floor-to-ceiling windows that provide a great view of the marina. Chef Robert Clark is passionate about seafood. Starters include dishes such as seared bay scallops with a rabbit terrine and carrot panna cotta. Among the main courses, look for the roasted halibut with carrots, sugar snap peas, potato galette and a rich clam-butter sauce; or red pepper-marinated sablefish with couscous, heirloom tomatoes and fennel chips. The wine list is particularly strong in the crisp whites from Germany, Austria and the Loire Valley that go well with seafood.

Set in a small Victorian townhouse downtown, this lovely duplex restaurant with a dramatic spiral staircase is home to some of the most inventive cooking in Montréal. Chef Jérôme Ferrer roams the markets for the finest ingredients and builds his menus on that foundation. You might, for example, find starters such as an imaginative take on spaghetti carbonara, made with tagliatelle, calamari, poached quail egg and lemon caviar. Main courses could be slowly braised veal cheeks in a light citrus sauce with fondant potatoes and a parsnip purée with Parmesan emulsion. Service is impeccable, and the extensive wine list has 25 by-the-glass selections.

Although this is indeed a restaurant, like many clubs, it has only a small sign outside. Inside, it is a warren of cozy rooms with clusters of small tables well-tended by the congenial staff. The menu concentrates on the fresh produce of the region (the restaurant’s name roughly translates “hunting and fishing club”) and abounds with appealing choices. Selections will change frequently, but look for dishes such as the starter of a rich mushroom tart with Cheddar and arugula, or the extraordinary suckling pig risotto with shaved foie gras. Main courses might include duck with Israeli couscous, figs and pistachios; or Arctic char with saffron, chorizo and cauliflower.

Some of the most appealing food in Toronto is served in this sophisticated and serene space. Mark McEwan presents imaginative, full­ flavored cuisine. On the list of starters, you might find rock shrimp tempura with a zesty chipotle-­yuzu aioli, or ahi tuna with onion rings, plantain chips and a spicy sriracha mayonnaise. Main courses could be the wonderful grilled Prince Edward Island lobster in its own bisque with morel ravioli, coriander oil and chervil. There is also a full range of superbly prepared steaks.