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British Columbia

British Columbia

Overview

From Andrew Harper

British Columbia seems to have more than its fair share of natural beauty. To the east, the cloud-piercing peaks of the Rockies jut above tumbling rivers, massive glaciers and vast tracts of forest. To the west, the Pacific meets a pristine coastline of dramatic cliffs and glorious beaches. There, the water teems with an unimaginable array of creatures, from awe-inspiring whales to the multicolored sea stars that glisten in shimmering tidal pools.

One of the greatest joys of the region is venturing into the wild to explore these wonders. Whale-watching, hiking, canoeing and kayaking are all increasingly popular. But of course, there are also cosmopolitan pleasures aplenty in the charming harbor town of Victoria and the sophisticated port city of Vancouver, which hosts a growing constellation of fine restaurants, with menus relying on the abundance of superb local ingredients.

The reputation of British Columbia’s vineyards is steadily growing. The main wine-producing regions are Vancouver Island, the adjacent Gulf Islands and the Okanagan Valley, about 240 miles east of Vancouver. (In 2006, an Okanagan Shiraz made by Jackson-Triggs won the top award at the International Wine and Spirit Competition in London.)

British Columbia is also a land with a rich cultural history that stretches back thousands of years. The indigenous people, now referred to as the “First Nations,” created an incredible legacy of myth and art. There are an increasing number of galleries where one can both see and buy the work of the province's painters, carvers and sculptors.

The climate west of the Rockies is generally mild, and we recommend traveling to British Columbia in late spring/early summer or late summer/early fall, with June and September being ideal. High summer can be lovely as well, but the coastal areas are then jammed with visitors, as is the region around Banff and Lake Louise. Whenever you go, keep in mind that the weather can change quickly and that fog is an ever-present possibility. This can necessitate rapid changes of plan. At one point, we had to switch from a plane to an early-morning ferry because of poor visibility.

Be sure to pack “adventure” gear, such as quick-drying pants and shirts, which will come in handy for hiking and other strenuous activities, as well as more sedentary ones like whale-watching, when you are equally likely to get wet. We also strongly advise that you pack as lightly and as efficiently as possible. Many of the floatplane operators have strict weight limits on baggage, including carry-on items.

Hotels

All recommended hotels in British Columbia

British Columbia, Canada
Clayoquot Wilderness Resort
Clayoquot Wilderness Resort

Idyllic wilderness retreat located half an hour by boat from Tofino. The grounds contain a cluster of log cabin-style buildings, plus guest accommodations in 20 luxurious tents.

Four Seasons Whistler
Four Seasons Whistler

Luxurious timber-and-stone hotel at the base of Blackcomb Mountain in the Upper Village, a short walk from the ski lifts.

British Columbia
Hastings House Country House Hotel
Hastings House Country House Hotel

Elegant manor house enclave secluded above Ganges Harbour on picturesque Salt Spring Island. Eighteen lodgings are divided among several charmingly restored cottages and estate buildings, most being king-bedded parlor suites with fireplaces.

King Pacific Lodge
King Pacific Lodge

Remote hideaway on a pristine inlet of Princess Royal Island, a one-hour seaplane flight from Prince Rupert.

Nimmo Bay Resort

Five-star wilderness and fishing lodge set along an unspoiled forested shoreline, across the Queen Charlotte Strait from the northern tip of Vancouver Island.

British Columbia
OPUS Vancouver
OPUS Vancouver

Fashionable 96-room boutique hotel in the exuberant Yaletown area. The rooms are decorated in vibrant colors, with dark wood furniture and modern art.

Shangri-La Hotel, Vancouver
Shangri-La Hotel, Vancouver

Impressive 119-room hotel occupying 15 floors of a 61-story landmark building downtown. Accommodations are decorated in contemporary Asian style and feature floor-to-ceiling windows.

Sooke Harbour House
Sooke Harbour House

Charming 28-room (no A/C) seaside restaurant and country inn set on a bluff above Whiffen Spit and the Strait of Juan de Fuca, 45 minutes west of Victoria in a scenic region noted for its sightings of sea lions, otters and whales.

Sparkling Hill Resort
Sparkling Hill Resort

Glittering 152-room resort decorated with 3.5 million Swarovski crystals and set on a granite ridge 1,250 feet above Lake Okanagan at the northern end of British Columbia's wine country.

The Guest House at Burrowing Owl Estate Winery
The Guest House at Burrowing Owl Estate Winery

Appealing 10-room wine country inn on 140 acres of vineyard-covered benchland near Osoyoos Lake at the southern end of the Okanagan Valley.

Dining

All recommended restaurants in British Columbia

Blue Water Café

This welcoming restaurant is located in a converted warehouse in the lively Yaletown neighborhood. Chef Frank Pabst is known for his skill with seafood. A great way to start is to choose from the raw bar or to opt for one of the “first” plates, such as local scallops baked with tomatoes, olives and capers. Entrées might include sablefish in a miso-sake glaze with baby bok choy, edamame, quinoa and shiitake mushrooms; or Arctic char with braised leeks, fennel, wakame seaweed, Dungeness crab, vermouth and chervil butter. The wine list has an impressive selection from British Columbia.

1095 Hamilton Street
Vancouver V6B
Canada
US$60
C

Beautifully situated on False Creek, this dramatic restaurant has two-story floor-to-ceiling windows that provide a great view of the marina. Chef Robert Clark is passionate about seafood. Starters include dishes such as seared bay scallops with a rabbit terrine and carrot panna cotta. Among the main courses, look for the roasted halibut with carrots, sugar snap peas, potato galette and a rich clam-butter sauce; or red pepper-marinated sablefish with couscous, heirloom tomatoes and fennel chips. The wine list is particularly strong in the crisp whites from Germany, Austria and the Loire Valley that go well with seafood.

2-1600 Howe Street
Vancouver V6Z 1R8
Canada
US$70. Eight-course chef’s menu, $95.
Hawksworth Restaurant

Chef David Hawksworth’s showcase is one of the most impressive new restaurants to open in Vancouver in some time. Four distinct but interconnected rooms help to create a visually compelling and sophisticated interior. The seasonal menu could include appetizers such as yellowfin tuna ceviche with avocado, pecans and cilantro. Main courses might be a striploin with smoked oxtail and crisp potato balls with a natural jus, and Pacific halibut with a rich brandade, beets, horseradish and dill.

801 West Georgia Street
Vancouver V6P 1C7
Canada
US$65.
Tojo's

Chef Hidekazu Tojo’s big, open space has a display kitchen and a lively sushi bar. His sushi rolls put Tojo’s on the map and include the “Pacific Northwest Roll,” Dungeness crab and avocado topped with scallops and herring roe; and the “Tojo Roll,” his take on the California roll, with crab, spinach, egg and avocado. Expect main courses such as a wonderful preparation of halibut cheeks in a garlic-cream teriyaki sauce.

1133 West Broadway
Vancouver V6H 1G3
Canada
US$65
West

The stylish South Granville neighborhood is home to this congenial and sophisticated restaurant. Inventive starters might include a Dungeness crab salad with marinated rhubarb, shaved fennel, charred grapefruit and cucumber jelly. Look for main courses such as a milk-poached smoked sablefish with charred spring onions and spaetzle in a clam reduction broth. The wine list is exceptional, and the knowledgeable staff is happy to make by-the-glass recommendations.

2881 Granville Street
Vancouver V6H 3J5
Canada
US$75. Seven-course “Sea” tasting menu, $74; eight-course “Land” tasting menu, $78.

Special Offers

Special Offers

King Pacific Lodge - Five Nights for the Price of Four
King Pacific Lodge - Five Nights for the Price of Four

Confirm a five-night stay Aug. 9-14 in any room category and pay only for four nights.

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