Set in a small Victorian townhouse downtown, this lovely duplex restaurant with a dramatic spiral staircase is home to some of the most inventive cooking in Montréal. Chef Jérôme Ferrer roams the markets for the finest ingredients and builds his menus on that foundation. You might, for example, find starters such as an imaginative take on spaghetti carbonara, made with tagliatelle, calamari, poached quail egg and lemon caviar. Main courses could be slowly braised veal cheeks in a light citrus sauce with fondant potatoes and a parsnip purée with Parmesan emulsion. Service is impeccable, and the extensive wine list has 25 by-the-glass selections.
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Traveling the World in Search
of Truly Enchanting Places
Quebec
Overview
From Andrew Harper
The vast Canadian province of Québec stretches from the Saint Lawrence River valley in the south (where Québec borders Vermont, Maine and New Hampshire) up toward the desolate arctic tundra between Hudson Bay and Newfoundland and Labrador in the north. Québec is distinctively bicultural: France’s colonization ended more than two centuries ago, but French is still the official language here, and while English is commonly spoken, most business signage is in French only.
The province is divided into 22 tourist regions. Montréal, in the south, is a major metropolis and blends neo-Gothic cathedrals with contemporary museums and renowned arts festivals. Québec City, the capital, has a slightly more provincial — and markedly more French — feel; its ramparts give way to spectacular natural parks nearby. Other highlights include the Gaspésie region, marked by rugged maritime splendor, and Montérégie, a lush gastronomic patchwork of vineyards, orchards, maple groves and renowned restaurants.
Canada’s largest province is best seen by car, and the routes along either side of the Saint Lawrence offer spectacular shoreline driving. The 800-plus kilometers of the King’s Road between Montréal and Québec City yield fantastic scenery and pass through a number of charming historic towns.
Hotels
All recommended hotels in Quebec
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Hotel Le GermainContemporary boutique hotel near McGill University. The 101 bright, stylish loft-like rooms have been completely refurbished with Italian-inspired furniture and high-tech amenities. |
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Hotel Le Germain - DominionSmartly styled 60-room contemporary boutique hotel housed within a nine-story stone building, below the funicular close to the waterfront in the Old Port historic quarter. |
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Hotel Le St-JamesEuropean-style hotel in an ornately restored 19th-century bank building in the charming old section of the city. |
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Le Saint-SulpiceCharming all-suite property in Old Montréal, ideal for those traveling with children. Many of the 108 accommodations offer fireplaces or balconies. |
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Place d'Armes Hotel & SuitesStylish 133-room boutique hotel housed in three restored historic buildings at the heart of Old Montréal, near the Notre-Dame Basilica and the Palais des Congrès. |
Dining
All recommended restaurants in Quebec
Europea
1227 rue de la Montagne
Montreal
H3G 1Z2
Canada
See map: Google Maps
US$75. Tasting menu, $95.50
Le Club Chasse et Peche
Although this is indeed a restaurant, like many clubs, it has only a small sign outside. Inside, it is a warren of cozy rooms with clusters of small tables well-tended by the congenial staff. The menu concentrates on the fresh produce of the region (the restaurant’s name roughly translates “hunting and fishing club”) and abounds with appealing choices. Selections will change frequently, but look for dishes such as the starter of a rich mushroom tart with Cheddar and arugula, or the extraordinary suckling pig risotto with shaved foie gras. Main courses might include duck with Israeli couscous, figs and pistachios; or Arctic char with saffron, chorizo and cauliflower.
423 rue St. Claude
Montreal
H2Y 3B6
Canada
See map: Google Maps
US$60
L’EXPRESS
Keep this address firmly in mind, because there is no sign — just the name of the restaurant in tiles in the sidewalk. Inside, it’s all bistro charm, with marble-topped tables, a zinc bar and lots of classic, homey French food. Thus, you’ll find a filling starter such as the ultra-rich bone marrow with coarse salt, or satisfying fish soup. For a main course, you might go for the classic hanger steak with frites (which remind you how good proper French fries can be) or the wonderful comfort dish, pot-au-feu. L’Express is open late, so you can also drop in for a croque-monsieur and a glass of red wine to end an evening.
3927 rue Saint-Denis
Montreal
H2W 2M3
Canada
See map: Google Maps
US$45
Toque!
Chef Normand Laprise is widely recognized as having raised the level of cooking in Montréal over the past several years. He will modestly credit the purveyors of the wonderful ingredients that inspire his menu, but his culinary skill is apparent on plate after plate. Look for terrific appetizers such as his take on a BLT with pancetta, lemon mayonnaise, Parmesan, basil and a Chardonnay vinaigrette; or a sumptuous foie gras terrine with corn purée, fried quinoa and yogurt. Main courses might be the beef tenderloin with beets, potatoes and a garlic confit in a sauce Bordelaise; or suckling pig two ways — loin and roasted belly with anise, red cabbage, fennel, almonds and black raspberry.
900 place Jean-Paul-Riopelle
Montreal
H2Y 3X7
Canada
See map: Google Maps
US$85. Tasting menu, US$110
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