California

I have wonderful memories of early visits to the Napa Valley and eating at a restaurant called Tra Vigne, whose chef, Michael Chiarello, was winning fans for his delicious takes on Italian cooking. Chiarello is back in the kitchen at his newest venture in the gourmet paradise of Yountville. Set in an old winery, the restaurant is decorated in tones of deep olive, cocoa and red. Chiarello focuses on Italian regional dishes and relies on carefully sourced ingredients. The menu changes regularly, but look for starters such as short rib meatballs with carrot caponata, a citrus emulsion and Sicilian spices; pastas like the black pepper bucatini alla carbonara with a soft-cooked egg, asparagus, guanciale and a Parmesan broth; and main courses that might include wood-grilled loin of lamb with saffron-braised potatoes, green onions, pistachio pesto and rosemary-inflected lamb jus.

This striking restaurant is housed in a building dating to 1928. Originally Italian Romanesque, the design was switched to art deco after one of the owners returned from the influential Paris Exhibition of 1925. Much of that glory has been preserved, with Lalique glass, art deco stair rails and molded ceiling details. The predominantly American-Italian menu matches this feast for the eyes. Look for starters such as grilled polenta with shrimp, coriander and avocado in an arrabiata sauce; or scallops with blinis, wasabi caviar and julienned radicchio in a basil vinaigrette. Pastas include fettuccine with a Bolognese sauce made with filet mignon, and a tricolore spaghettini with arugula, radicchio and endive topped with truffled cheese. Among the main courses, standouts include the veal chop, which is wrapped in apple-smoked bacon, and sautéed potatoes in a black pepper-vermouth sauce; and sea bass with a warm iceberg slaw, corn and a crisp phyllo, all in an herb sauce. Dinner only Wednesday-Friday.

Located across the lobby from the library in the Hôtel Les Mars, Cyrus should not be missed. With arched ceilings, soft lighting and carefully arranged seating, this is a warm, inviting space where you will eat the best food in Sonoma. Chef Douglas Keane’s menus range from an eight-course vegetarian feast to an omnivore’s eight-course extravaganza. His preparations are innovative without being far out, for example, chilled salmon with ginger and daikon in a snap pea-basil broth, or crispy chicken with miso and morel fondue, plus a wonderful selection of farmhouse cheeses.

One of the Napa Valley’s first high-end restaurants, Etoile faded, but has now returned brighter than ever. In an interesting twist, chef Perry Hoffman is the grandson of the original owner of The French Laundry, Thomas Keller’s celebrated restaurant in Yountville. In the romantic dining room that overlooks carefully tended gardens, Hoffman serves dishes blending French and California cuisines. Look for starters such as Dungeness crab and heirloom carrots with shrimp mousse, tangerine and sorrel. Main courses might include sea urchin ettuccine with heirloom radishes, kumquats, wild greens and fennel; or pan- seared prime New York steak with parsley root, red wine-braised radicchio and black trumpet mushrooms. The menu suggests wine pairings for each dish.