I have wonderful memories of early visits to the Napa Valley and eating at a restaurant called Tra Vigne, whose chef, Michael Chiarello, was winning fans for his delicious takes on Italian cooking. Chiarello is back in the kitchen at his newest venture in the gourmet paradise of Yountville. Set in an old winery, the restaurant is decorated in tones of deep olive, cocoa and red. Chiarello focuses on Italian regional dishes and relies on carefully sourced ingredients. The menu changes regularly, but look for starters such as short rib meatballs with carrot caponata, a citrus emulsion and Sicilian spices; pastas like the black pepper bucatini alla carbonara with a soft-cooked egg, asparagus, guanciale and a Parmesan broth; and main courses that might include wood-grilled loin of lamb with saffron-braised potatoes, green onions, pistachio pesto and rosemary-inflected lamb jus.
Traveling the World in Search
of Truly Enchanting Places
Napa Valley
Overview
From Andrew Harper
There are few more delightful areas than Napa and Sonoma Wine Country, with its quaint towns, fine restaurants, stylish shops and landscape covered by a quilt of manicured vineyards.
The Napa Valley forms a graceful crescent, its wide, fertile plain flanked by verdant mountains. This is where you will find iconic names such as Robert Mondavi, Shafer, Schramsberg, Stag’s Leap, Caymus and many more. Sonoma County comprises four wine-producing areas: the Alexander and Dry Creek valleys to the north; the Russian River Valley to the west; and the Sonoma Valley to the south.
The great expansion of the California wine industry took place in the 1970s. Soon, talented restaurateurs began to follow in the winemakers’ footsteps. And in turn, hoteliers seized the opportunity to cater to an increasingly sophisticated clientele.
Of course, it’s not just wine and gastronomy that make Napa and Sonoma so alluring. Other activities include hiking, fishing, golfing, horseback riding, even hot-air ballooning. The ideal time of year for a visit is in spring, before the onset of the summer heat, or during the unfailingly sunny days of early fall as the winemakers prepare for the harvest. At these seasons, you may reasonably conclude there are few lovelier places on earth.
Hotels
All recommended hotels in Napa Valley
 |
Auberge du SoleilCosmopolitan resort terraced into a hillside overlooking Napa Valley vineyards in Rutherford, 90 minutes north of San Francisco. |
California | |
 |
BardessonoInviting property set on a seven-acre site in the gourmet town of Yountville, 90 minutes north of San Francisco. |
California | |
 |
Calistoga RanchTranquil resort of 48 cedar-clad guest lodges, sister property to Auberge du Soleil, in a wooded canyon at the northern edge of the Napa Valley. |
California | |
 |
Meadowood Napa ValleyDistinctive resort on a 250-acre estate in the heart of the Napa Valley in St. Helena, 90 minutes north of San Francisco. |
California | |
 |
Milliken Creek Inn and SpaAppealing inn set along a serene stretch of the Napa River, not far from downtown Napa’s notable restaurants. |
California | |
 |
Poetry InnThis dramatic sanctuary in the Stags Leap District is perched on a hilltop providing spectacular views of the pastoral valley below. |
California |
Dining
All recommended restaurants in Napa Valley
Etoile
One of the Napa Valley’s first high-end restaurants, Etoile faded, but has now returned brighter than ever. In an interesting twist, chef Perry Hoffman is the grandson of the original owner of The French Laundry, Thomas Keller’s celebrated restaurant in Yountville. In the romantic dining room that overlooks carefully tended gardens, Hoffman serves dishes blending French and California cuisines. Look for starters such as Dungeness crab and heirloom carrots with shrimp mousse, tangerine and sorrel. Main courses might include sea urchin ettuccine with heirloom radishes, kumquats, wild greens and fennel; or pan- seared prime New York steak with parsley root, red wine-braised radicchio and black trumpet mushrooms. The menu suggests wine pairings for each dish.
Redd
The contemporary décor of this stylish restaurant exudes warmth, comfort and welcome. Chef Richard Reddington’s resume includes stints at San Francisco’s La Folie and Masa’s, New York’s Daniel, France’s Arpège and Le Moulin des Mougins, and four years heading the kitchen at Napa’s superb Auberge du Soleil. His memorable menu changes often, but has included inviting dishes such as glazed pork belly accompanied by apple purée and burdock with soy caramel; sautéed skate with marble potatoes, asparagus and hen of the woods mushrooms in a Port sauce; and prime New York steak with a short rib marmalade, bone marrow crust and creamed spinach. Reddington works with the wine staff to create one of the most interesting lists in the Napa Valley.
Terra
Housed in a rustic stone building just off St. Helena’s main street, this is the venue for some of the finest meals in the wine country. Chef Hiro Sone, who works with his wife, Lissa Doumani, created a new Bar Terra for light meals and drinks, while keeping a vibrant full menu in the restaurant. It takes courage to do this in a business that has operated successfully since 1988, but Sone and Doumani’s efforts have made Terra even better. The food is delicious and embodies a skillful take on California cuisine with Asian accents. The menus change regularly, but look for dishes such as broiled sake-marinated Alaska black cod with shrimp dumplings in a shiso broth, and agnolotti stuffed with milk-braised pork in a nettle sauce. The wine list is full of interesting bottles, and the staff is exceptionally knowledgeable.
The French Laundry
Tucked into a charming 19th-century building, this restaurant, among the finest in the United States, is home to the sublime cooking of chef Thomas Keller (who also presides over celebrated Per Se in New York). Here, Keller and his dedicated crew orchestrate two nine-course menus (one vegetarian) that change daily and focus on small, carefully considered dishes meant to intrigue and inspire. No ingredient is repeated in any menu. However, offerings have included a sabayon of pearl tapioca with Island Creek oysters and white sturgeon caviar; Columbia River sturgeon with bacon, Savoy cabbage, turnips and Dijon mustard; and Snake River Ranch prime beef with porcini mushrooms, carrots, a potato confit and a rich bone-marrow pudding in a sauce Bordelaise. The wine list is exquisite, and the staff is expert at recommending pairings. Reservations are extremely difficult to obtain and are accepted precisely two months to the day in advance.
From the Member Community