I have wonderful memories of early visits to the Napa Valley and eating at a restaurant called Tra Vigne, whose chef, Michael Chiarello, was winning fans for his delicious takes on Italian cooking. Chiarello is back in the kitchen at his newest venture in the gourmet paradise of Yountville. Set in an old winery, the restaurant is decorated in tones of deep olive, cocoa and red. Chiarello focuses on Italian regional dishes and relies on carefully sourced ingredients. The menu changes regularly, but look for starters such as short rib meatballs with carrot caponata, a citrus emulsion and Sicilian spices; pastas like the black pepper bucatini alla carbonara with a soft-cooked egg, asparagus, guanciale and a Parmesan broth; and main courses that might include wood-grilled loin of lamb with saffron-braised potatoes, green onions, pistachio pesto and rosemary-inflected lamb jus.