Chef Corey Lee, who worked for many years at The French Laundry, oversees a menu that skillfully combines contemporary American, Continental and Japanese cuisines. The spare interior of white walls, gray banquettes and black tables reflects the minimalist style of the food. Look for starters such as sardines accompanied by multigrain bread with egg salad, okra and a charred-scallion vinaigrette; and main courses like sea urchin risotto with corn, lovage and black truffle; or dry-aged lamb with abalone mushrooms in a Parmesan jus. The exceptional wine list has 24 by-the-glass selections, as well as seven sakes. The recommended wine pairings are spot-on.