The latest offering from chef Michael White is located in The Setai hotel on Fifth Avenue (White also presides over Marea and Osteria Morini). Ai fiori means “among the flowers,” and this large, tranquil space is bright with floral arrangements that add an air of romance and celebration. The menu changes frequently, but look for pastas such as the luscious Trofie Nero, Ligurian- style squid’s ink pasta, with a pleasantly tangy ragout of squid and scallops. The equally outstanding main courses may include laurel-crusted cod with brandade, black truffles and porcini; or an outstanding veal chop with new potatoes, prosciutto and sage. There are more than two dozen wines by the glass.