Occasionally, the arrival of a new hideaway fills me with a particular thrill of expectation. Wine magnate Bernard Magrez owns 22 estates in the Bordelais region. His latest project, however, is a six-bedroom hotel located in the city of Bordeaux itself. A venture with chef Joël Robuchon — 28 Michelin stars — La Grande Maison debuted in December. Located on a side street opposite L’Institut Culturel Bernard Magrez, where its owner displays his extensive modern art collection, the hotel is housed within an 18th-century mansion. Although the rooms are lavish, the restaurant and extraordinary cellar will be the principal attractions. Robuchon makes little secret that his aim is to acquire another three Michelin stars at the earliest opportunity.