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New Lyon Restaurant Discoveries

By Andrew Harper

The Hideaway Report | May 21, 2018

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Lyon’s traditional gastronomy focuses on the meat-oriented regional menus of the traditional bistros, or bouchons. The food is robust, with the charcuterie and offal dishes being particularly notable. Nowadays, however, a new generation of young chefs is experimenting with lighter, more-health-conscious cuisine. Here are our favorite restaurant discoveries.

Le Passe Temps

Lyon’s traditional gastronomy focuses on the meat-oriented regional menus of the traditional bistros, or bouchons. The food is robust, with the charcuterie and offal dishes being particularly notable. Nowadays, however, a new generation of young chefs is experimenting with lighter, more-health-conscious cuisine. Here are our favorite restaurant discoveries.

Le Passe Temps

Beef and potatoes from Le Passe Temps Photo by Andrew Harper

The chef at this quiet Michelin-starred restaurant is Korean-born Younghoon Lee, who studied at Institut Paul Bocuse and then worked at Restaurant Lasserre in Paris. His market-driven menus follow the seasons and feature contemporary French dishes like scallop tartare with daikon radish and bottarga, brill with cockles in herb sauce, and beef with wild mushrooms.

Le Passe Temps
52 Rue Tronchet. Tel. (33) 4-72-82-90-14

PRaiRiaL

Monkfish with lemon and herbs from PRaiRiaL Photo by Andrew Harper

The meal we most enjoyed during our trip was dinner at talented young chef Gaëtan Gentil’s sleek, modern bistro, with its minimalist décor and vertical garden on one wall. Not only was the food outstanding — including dishes like monkfish with combava (makrut lime), roasted celery root in vin jaune, and beef with ramps — but the service was charming.

PRaiRiaL
11 Rue Chavanne. Tel. (33) 4-78-27-86-93

Takao Takano

Poached pineapple with popcorn and begonia petals from Takao Takano Photo by Andrew Harper

Having just won a second Michelin star this year, Japanese-born chef Takao Takano has become a celebrity on Lyon’s culinary scene. His light-filled restaurant with a Zen décor is the setting for his intriguing tasting menus, which include brilliantly subtle dishes like mackerel tartare with a Japanese-style egg custard and dashi gelée, seared scallops with salsify and black truffles, and lamb with puntarella (chicory).

Takao Takano
33 Rue Malesherbes. Tel. (33) 4-82-31-43-39

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