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Worldwide //  Europe //  Germany //  Munich
8 Restaurants

From Andrew Harper:

The capital of Bavaria is famous for its Oktoberfest, but Munich is also a hightech hub with a lively arts scene and splendid architecture. The central square of the Old Town is Marienplatz, and there, the famous 43-bell Glockenspiel rings out daily from the NewTown Hall. Munich’s museums rival those of Berlin. The Alte Pinakothek houses one of the world’s finest collections of Old Master paintings. The Neue Pinakothek covers 19th-century art. And the recently opened Pinakothek der Moderne exhibits contemporary works. When the warm weather arrives, residents and visitors alike head for the Englischer Garten park.

- Andrew Harper

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Chef Karl Ederer is a leading proponent of new German cooking, which looks around the world for inspiration and highlights top-quality ingredients. The handsome, highceilinged dining room has several woodburning fireplaces and is decorated with modern art. Ederer’s menu evolves constantly, but dishes such as zucchini flowers stuffed with polenta, mushrooms, eggplant and mint; trout with tarragon sauce, green onions and spinach; and variations of local venison with broccoli, wild garlic sauce and scalloped potatoes exemplify his style. Closed Sunday.

Kardinal-Faulhaber-Strasse 10 Munich US$65

No trip to Munich would be complete without a visit to one of its legendary beer halls. This one overlooking the charming Viktualienmarkt, or main food market, is our favorite for its hearty beef goulash with brown pretzel dumplings and homemade bratwurst seasoned with beer and served with mashed potatoes and sauerkraut.

Viktualienmarkt 15 Munich US$35

The more upscale Halali is similarly inviting and congenial. Fortunately, tourists have yet to discover it, and the clientele appeared to be almost exclusively local. Here, the chefs deftly update classic Bavarian cuisine, accompanied by wines from a list particularly strong in Austrian selections. I savored an appetizer of eel with a truffled egg atop fresh whole-grain bread, and a main course of venison in juniper sauce with light spätzle (egg noodles) and red sauerkraut. Closed Sundays.

Schonfeldstrasse 22 Munich

This very popular place with a rustic décor of arched paneled walls and wooden tables overlooks the opera house on Max Joseph Platz and serves delicious Bavarian comfort food. Try dishes such as beet carpaccio with smoked local trout, mâche and pumpkin-seed oil; crispy suckling pig with potato and bread dumplings and cabbage salad with bacon; and a dessert of Bavarian cream with quince ragout. The street level is more casual and less expensive than the upper floor.

Residenzstrasse12 Munich US$60

Regional Bavarian cookery is enlivened by international fusion techniques at celebrity chef Alfons Schuhbeck’s remarkable restaurant. Innovative dishes run the gamut from Alpine salmon atop potato mousseline and baby spinach to grilled fillet of local ox with Tasmanian pepper, Brussels sprouts and pumpkin marzipan. Attentive service and a distinguished wine list help to justify the lofty price tag. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Platzl 6+8 Munich US$150

Elegant surroundings on the second floor of the leading Käfer delicatessen enhance a menu of traditional regional cooking. The seasonal menu might include local duck breast cooked sous-vide, with parsley root and pear salad, black walnuts and pear cream; and Danube salmon with root-vegetable broth, horseradish foam, leek, celery and potatoes. Closed Sunday.

Prinzregentenstrasse 73 Munich US$75

On arrival, I invariably eat first in a casual Wirtshaus (tavern), such as the friendly Wirtshaus im Fraunhofer, a short stroll from the old center. The cozy room has an ornate plaster ceiling, wall-mounted antlers and well-worn wooden tables illuminated by candles. Our cheery bilingual waiter served us asparagus cream soup, followed by plates of pork cutlets with bacon-infused roasted potatoes and onion mustard, washed down with a refreshing Maibock (a strong pale lager).

Fraunhoferstrasse 9 Munich

The formal Restaurant Königshof overlooks the bustling Karlsplatz. Typical dishes might include sole in artichoke stock with Venus clams and finger limes; wild duck breast with chanterelles, melted foie gras and pumpernickel; and pistachio brittle with baklava, cardamom-spiked blueberries and egg liqueur. Imaginative sommelier and unusual wine list. Closed Sunday and Monday.

Karlsplatz 25 Munich US$150

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