Worldwide //  Europe //  France //  Paris

Paris

Louvre Museum at Sunset, Paris

Mr. Harper's Travel Guide

The north side of Paris (or Right Bank, when facing downstream on the Seine) has a justified reputation for magnificence and sophistication. Its grandest street, the Champs-Elysées, lost some of its luster as major global brands moved in, but with the return of luxury houses ...

The north side of Paris (or Right Bank, when facing downstream on the Seine) has a justified reputation for magnificence and sophistication. Its grandest street, the Champs-Elysées, lost some of its luster as major global brands moved in, but with the return of luxury houses such as Louis Vuitton, the avenue has regained much of its former cachet. The nearby Avenue Montaigne is the epicenter of the French fashion industry, while the Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré is home to auction houses and upscale art galleries. South of the Seine, the Rive Gauche has traditionally figured as the bohemian and intellectual counterpart to the Rive Droite. Sartre and de Beauvoir once conversed in the cafés of the Boulevard Saint-Germain, but today the worldwide chains have largely replaced the galleries and bookstores. The Latin Quarter is still the locus of Parisian university life — the Sorbonne is here — and its narrow streets are crammed with cinemas and inexpensive Mediterranean food. 

bird icon Recommended Luxury Hotels in Paris

All Andrew Harper-recommended hotels offer impeccable accommodations and high levels of personal service. Only the best of the best make our list, so we rate them on a scale from bird icon 90 to 100.
loading...

Best Restaurants in Paris

This vintage wine shop in a chic corner of the 17th arrondissement feels almost like a film set: lacy curtains in the front window, a big zinc bar, mosaic tiles, and cornices overhead. It can be a trifle stuffy, but I enjoy the atmosphere and the seriousness of the well-heeled crowd here. The pours by the glass change weekly, but you can also purchase a bottle from the shop as long as you’re willing to swallow the steep corkage fee (worth doing, in my opinion, as the list is impressive). The menu features well-made French comfort food such as foie gras, duckling with green peppercorns, rabbit in mustard sauce, a superb cheese tray and a fine crème brûlée.

30 Bis avenue Niel Paris (17e) http://www.cavespetrissans.fr

If you want a sushi fix while you’re in Paris, this small, quiet bar overlooking the Seine on the Ile Saint-Louis is the place to go. It doesn’t have a lot of atmosphere, but chef Katsuo Nakamura works behind the counter with the freshest fish in Paris, and most of the other clients are likely to be Japanese. Pricey, but so is the finest fish, and the Zen calm here makes it a pleasant place for lunch during a wander around the islands (Ile de la Cité and the Ile Saint-Louis). Reservations are essential. Closed Sunday and Monday.

4 Quai d’Orléans Paris (4e) http://isami.zenchef.com/

After cooking at Lasserre for several years, talented chef Jean-Louis Nomicos opened this strikingly modern restaurant in the 16th arrondissement, and immediately began attracting a well-heeled neighborhood crowd who appreciate his inventive contemporary cooking. Nomicos is from Marseilles, and many of the dishes he serves have a touch of the south in them. Attentive service and a dressy but relaxed atmosphere.

16 Avenue Bugeaud Paris (16e) http://www.lestablettesjeanlouisnomicos.com

If all you want to eat when you come to Paris is foie gras and boeuf bourguignon, this stylish restaurant with a loft-like décor isn’t the right place. If, on the other hand, you want to sample some excellent and inventive contemporary French cooking, you might enjoy chef William Ledeuil’s very popular restaurant in Saint-German-des-Prés. Ledeuil is fascinated by Asian ingredients and recipes, and he creates unusual but unfailingly delicious hybrid dishes. It can be noisy here, and the friendly young staff lack a bit of polish, but Ze Kitchen Galerie has a lively atmosphere and attracts an interesting crowd of artists, antique dealers and gallery owners.

 

4 Rue des Grands Augustins Paris (6e) http://www.zekitchengalerie.fr

Englishman Mark Williamson launched the modern Parisian wine bar when he opened this still very popular place near the Palais-Royal in 1980. Small, convivial and stylish, it attracts a fashionable international crowd who enjoy the excellent pours by the glass and a good chalkboard menu that runs to dishes such as artichokes with marinated onions and foie gras, and pan-roasted guinea hen with girolles. A great destination after a stroll and some shopping in the Palais.

13 Rue des Petits Champs Paris (1e) http://www.williswinebar.com

Stylish Parisians hankering after a taste of the food they enjoyed during their Iberian holidays have made this sleek beige dining room on the banks of the Seine one of the most popular foreign restaurants in Paris. It is especially busy on Saturday and Sunday nights, when the locals come for the excellent paellas that emerge from chef Alberto Herraiz’s fogón (oven). Start with an assortment of tapas or some Spanish charcuterie before the mostly rice-based main courses. Service is friendly, and the atmosphere is relaxed but fashionable in a very Saint-Germain-des-Prés kind of way. Good Spanish wine selections.

45 Quai des Grands-Augustins Paris (6e) http://www.fogon.fr

Located on the banks of the Seine in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, this romantic restaurant occupies a townhouse that dates to 1766 and has a long and fascinating history; the great French gastronome Auguste Escoffier was once the chef here. The main dining room has real Old World elegance, with low lighting, oil paintings and wood paneling, and they also have several private dining rooms where the scratches in the mirrors are said to have been made by ladies testing the veracity of diamonds newly offered by their suitors.  It is also very quiet and ideal for a tete a tete. 

51 Quai des Grands Augustins Paris (6e) http://www.laperouse.fr/restaurant

With red-and-ivory-checked tablecloths, waiters in white aprons and a menu that runs to delicious dishes such as pâté de campagne, foie gras, duck confit and blanquette de veau, this is a classic French establishment with excellent service. A textbook example of the much-loved traditional Parisian bistro, a species that is sadly becoming endangered. 

129 Rue Saint-Dominique Paris (7e) US$70 http://www.fontainedemars.com/

Here, high ceilings and a beautiful 19th-century bar create a potently Parisian atmosphere. The modern French cooking — innovative without straying into the realm of the overly odd — makes this exactly the kind of place where you’re happy to settle in for a relaxed meal and a good bottle of wine. Starters include the likes of shredded crab meat with carrot-ginger mousse and Dublin Bay prawn foam with lemongrass; main courses run to roasted turbot with stuffed piquillo pepper, sweet onions and chorizo. An excellent wine list, and a jazz pianist on occasion, help the well-dressed crowd of corporate-types and others unwind. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

8 Rue Volney Paris (2e) US$65. Tasting menu, US$75

To be perfectly clear, the main reason to dine at Le Jules Verne is that it offers spectacular views over Paris from the city’s most famous landmark. So if you come here with tempered expectations and are prepared to pay dearly for the privilege of these magnificent panoramas, you’re likely to enjoy yourself. This restaurant is now part of the Alain Ducasse stable. The food is generally good, but not the best, and the wine list is predictably overpriced. Because of fire regulations, most of what you eat is actually prepared in a ground-floor kitchen and transferred to a service kitchen in the Eiffel Tower.

Eiffel Tower Avenue Gustave Eiffel Paris (7e) http://www.lejulesverne-paris.com

This is a lively spot with tightly spaced tables, but as soon as your first course arrives, you’ll understand why it’s worth putting up with the raucous atmosphere of this popular Left Bank bistro. Chef Stéphane Jégo’s food is delicious, and includes dishes such as baby scallops in their shells with tiny croutons and flat parsley, or fricassee of guinea hen cooked with thyme, rosemary and girolles mushrooms. Closed Sunday and Monday.

27 Rue Malar Paris (7e) US$60 http://www.amijean.eu/en/index.htm

This strategically located café just across the street from the Church of Saint-Germain-des-Prés takes its name from two “magots,” or Japanese statuettes, in the main salon. Its large terrace has been an excellent spot for people-watching since it opened in 1885. Much like its erstwhile rival the Café de Flore, it has attracted many artists and notables over the years and is very expensive. Les Deux Magots and the Café de Flore are the salt and pepper of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, eternally paired but also very different. Though Les Deux Magots also awards a famous literary prize, it pulls more shoppers than the Flore, and the crowd is often more international than Parisian.

6 Place Saint-Germain-des-Prés Paris (6e) http://www.lesdeuxmagots.fr

This elegant limestone townhouse near the Assemblée Nationale on the Left Bank houses a Latin American cultural center. For knowledgeable locals, it also has one of the most beautiful gardens in Paris, where dinner and lunch are served during the summer months, weather permitting. Closed August.

217 Boulevard Saint-Germain Paris (7e) http://mal217.org/fr/restaurant-bar_2/restaurant

After a Sunday afternoon stroll around the Marais, I inevitably end up at this popular bistro featuring a simple décor, casual but correct service and an excellent chalkboard menu of seasonal French comfort-food dishes. It can be a bit noisy (the crowd is young, and the room is rather bare), but it is a bona fide neighborhood restaurant.  I enjoy dishes like the smoked garlic soup, smoked salmon or homemade country pâté to start, followed by a fine steak tartare, grilled Bigorre pork or maybe some game in season.  Note that this place is very popular, so bookings are always necessary. 

49 rue de Turenne Paris (3e) http://lecafedesmusees.fr/en

Located in the silk-stocking 7th arrondissement, not far from the Eiffel Tower, chef Arnaud Pitrois’ stylish contemporary bistro is a soigné address popular with well-heeled locals and travelers in the know. I’ve been coming here for a long time, and always appreciate Madame Pitrois’ welcome and her husband’s inventive but reliably light and delicious contemporary French cooking. The menu follows the seasons, but dishes such as chestnut soup with chicken gnocchi, sea bass with black truffles and arugula sauce, and mandarin orange soufflé offer a good idea of the chef’s style. Good wine list and amiable service.

16 Avenue Rapp Paris (7e) http://www.closdesgourmets.com

Occupying a pretty white pavilion in the gardens of the Champs Élysées, Laurent has a dual personality. It is a popular power lunch venue for French politicians and business people in the afternoon, and then it becomes quieter and more intimate in the evening. During the summer, weather permitting, they serve outside in one of the prettiest gardens in central Paris. Chef Alain Pégouret is a talented classicist with a deft culinary imagination. Excellent wine list and very good service.

41 Avenue Gabriel Paris (8e) http://www.le-laurent.com

This cozy bistro in the residential 11th arrondissement is where you’re likely to find Paris food critics eating on their nights off. The blackboard menu changes daily but runs to dishes such as coddled eggs with wild mushrooms, cod with chanterelles, excellent steaks, and homemade seasonal fruit tarts. The wonderful wine list is especially strong on Côtes du Rhônes. Closed Sunday and Monday.

18 Rue Paul Bert Paris (11e) US$65

After cooking at Les Ambassadeurs in the Hôtel de Crillon for a time, chef Dominique Bouchet opened his own establishment in the early 2000s. This dining room, with its exposed stone walls and contemporary art, has since become one of my favorites in Paris. Bouchet is one of the most experienced chefs in town — he also cooked at Jamin when it was run by Joël Robuchon and at La Tour d’Argent, among others. This impressive gastronomic history informs his menu. Start with the king crab with avocado, mango and green apple, or try the imaginative sake-marinated foie gras with black cherry jam, quince and toasted brioche. Then, sample sea bass with crushed ratte potatoes, vanilla-flavored olive oil, capers and lemon; rack of lamb roasted with thyme flowers and served with black olive polenta and stir-fried chanterelles; or a perfect fillet of beef. Service is precise, and the atmosphere is dressy but low-key. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

11 Rue Treilhard Paris (8e) US$120. Tasting menus, US$120 and US$160 http://www.dominique-bouchet.com/en/index.php

With a charming décor created by soft lighting, old beams, oil paintings and seasonal bouquets, this cozy restaurant stands on the site of an old convent where King Louis XIII was crowned in 1610. Before buying the establishment in 1996, chef Manuel Martinez cooked at many of the great restaurants of France, and this impressive background informs the precision of his delicious classical cooking. This place is ideal for a tête-à-tête.

8 Rue des Grands Augustins Paris (6e) http://www.relaislouis13.fr

Though it’s off the beaten track, young chef Bertrand Grébaut’s bistro is worth discovering for his imaginative contemporary French dishes. Grébaut trained with chef Alain Passard at L’Arpège, a background that shows up in starters such as risotto with watercress and sorrel, and main courses like cod steak in a jus de poulet with fennel bulb shavings, or succulent pork rib with radishes and carrots. Friendly service in an attractive, loft-like space and an interesting wine list make this a great choice for casual dining. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

80 Rue de Charonne Paris (11e) US$75 http://www.septime-charonne.fr/

As real bistros are becoming hard to find in Saint-Germain-des-Prés — the rent is too high for most to make a go of it — it’s great news when a new one opens, especially if it’s as good as this snug, stylish dining room just off the Rue du Bac. Chef Guillaume Monnet, who previously cooked at Apicius, creates an ever-changing menu of delicious contemporary French dishes that has included starters such as oxtail ravioli with foie gras, and steamed eggs with smoked salmon; mains like poached John Dory with rutabaga purée and hazelnut butter, and grilled pork belly with salsify Tatin; and desserts such as a perfectly delicious chocolate soufflé. 

10 Rue de Saint-Simon Paris (7e) US$65 http://www.laffable.fr/

A temple of Parisian haute cuisine since 1946, this celebrated power-broking establishment occupies a grand 19th-century townhouse off of the Champs- Elysées. Current chef Alain Solivérès presents elegant dishes such as sea bass with leeks, Champagne and osetra caviar; boudin of Breton lobster with an emulsion of tarragon and aniseed; and spit-roasted Bresse chicken for two with morel mushrooms and pats of butter infused with Jura wine tucked under the skin. Closed Saturday and Sunday, and from late July to late August.

15 Rue Lamennais Paris (8e) US$175. Tasting menu, US$240; seasonal menu, US$310 http://www.taillevent.com/

Though it’s located in the heart of the city on the busy Rue Réaumur, as soon as you step inside this simple, cozy bistro, you’ll think you’re in the French Basque Country. Garlands of red Espelette peppers hang from the ceiling, and the welcome is very warm in this casual room with a vintage mosaic floor, a long service bar and framed posters on the walls. Chef Bertrand Guéneron, who was once sous chef to Alain Senderens, turns out delicious renditions of Basque classics such as axoa, a hearty veal stew. 

38 Rue Réaumur Paris (3e) http://www.au-bascou.fr

This bustling bistro offers not only a fine array of traditional dishes but also a delicious dose of eternal Paris. It originally opened to feed the hungry stall-holders and workers from Les Halles, the central market of Paris, which was once just down the street. That market, sadly, is long gone (it moved to suburban Rungis in the ’70s and the original buildings were demolished), but the raucous, jolly mood of this place harks back to an era when farmers and merchants arrived in the middle of the night to peddle their wares. I can’t think of any happier cure for jet lag than a 2 a.m. feast at this place, which serves until 5:00 a.m., especially since it offers some of the best rib steaks in town with huge sides of crispy golden frites (a meal best washed down with the house Brouilly, still decanted from big barrels up front). Other good dishes include wonderful pâtés, mutton with white beans, andouillette (chitterling) sausages, and offal for those who don’t find it awful. Service is brisk and wisecracking, and there’s a lot of chatting between tables.

5 Rue des Prouvaires Paris (1e)

Chef Paul Michelli is one of the most famous fish cooks in Paris, and after running a swanky eponymous seafood house in the 7th arrondissement for several years, he moved to this cozy, clubby little place in the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés a few years ago. It’s since become a real insider’s address with local gallery owners and antique dealers, many of whom dine here daily, because they love Minchelli’s minimalist cooking style—he believes that really fresh fish should never be overwhelmed by sauces or garnishes. 

21 Rue Mazarine Paris (6e)

The most famous literary café on the Left Bank has been a gathering place for writers, artists and glamorous eccentrics since it opened in 1887. Today, there are at least as many tourists in the crowd as there are creative types, but the Flore continues to be a bastion of the Saint-Germain-des-Prés intelligentsia and popular with fashion designers such as Karl Lagerfeld and Sonia Rykiel. The locals tend to sit inside the pretty art deco salon or, if they’re doing business, to head upstairs for extra discretion. Yes, it’s very expensive, but the price of a coffee is your ticket to one of the greatest shows in Paris. It remains the very definition of a great (many think the greatest) Paris café.

172 Boulevard Saint-Germain Paris (6e) http://www.cafedeflore.fr

Just across the street from the western wing of the Louvre, Le Fumoir is a great all-purpose address: a combination bar, café and restaurant. Inside, you’ll find bare wooden floors and a handsome mahogany bar imported from a Chicago speakeasy, and there are sidewalk tables when the weather is decent. The staff is young, alert and friendly, and the drink list is reasonably priced and expertly mixed. There are also complimentary newspapers, a good assortment of wines by the glass, and a generously served brunch on Sundays. 

6 Rue de l'Amiral de Coligny Paris (1e) http://www.lefumoir.com

Tucked away in Montmartre, this attractive restaurant with a stylish modern décor serves one of the most original menus in Paris. Chef Antoine Heerah is from the Indian Ocean island of Mauritius, and his distinctive cooking marries its culinary traditions (French, African, Chinese and Indian) to fresh French produce with intriguing results. During the summer, you can dine on one of the prettiest little terraces in Paris.

52 Rue Lamarck Paris (18e) http://www.chamarre-montmartre.com

Anyone who is curious about avant-garde French haute cuisine should not miss Pierre Gagnaire’s restaurant. His astonishingly elaborate dishes change according to market and season, but they have included langoustine tartare with green mango, gooseberry-mustard syrup, black radish and potato purée; and rack of lamb poached in oregano bouillon with a crust of fresh herbs accompanied by shrimp cooked in prune brandy. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

Hotel Balzac 6 Rue Balzac Paris (8e) US$175 http://www.pierre-gagnaire.com/

For an experience of vintage Parisian elegance, this white-orchid-filled dining room with its small army of courtly waiters can’t be bettered. It occupies the first floor of a refined townhouse in the heart of the city, where a doorman escorts you from a small elevator to your table. The menu offers a superb selection of house classics such as the Challans duckling for two with cherries. Other dishes might include the classic beef Rossini with puffed potatoes, or line-caught John Dory with fennel and candied lemon. Closed Sunday and Monday; dinner only except Thursday and Friday.

17 Avenue Franklin Roosevelt Paris (8e) US$235. Tasting Menu, US$220 http://www.restaurant-lasserre.com/uk/index.php

Sadly, this storied restaurant has never been the same since the passing of Claude Terrail, the dapper owner and maître d’hôtel par excellence. Yet it still serves up one of the loveliest views in Paris (the back of Notre Dame, the Seine and its banks) and its famous roast caneton (duckling) in orange sauce. Service is serious and cordial in the best old-fashioned traditions of Gallic gastronomy. To be sure, the kitchen has had some ups and downs during the last few years, but my last meal here was excellent. It’s still a grand experience to daydream over the vista and be coddled in an elegant dining room. Come for lunch to get the view at its best, and also perhaps to take advantage of the good-value prix-fixe lunch menu.

15 quai de la Tournelle Paris (5e) http://www.tourdargent.com

Located on an island in the Bois de Boulogne, the vast park on the western edge of Paris, this romantic good-weather-only pavilion is surrounded by flowering gardens and towering pines. You will have to take a cab to get here, but it’s a delightful outing on a warm day. A stylish crowd of Parisians enjoys an open-air terrace that is set with well-spaced tables and is candlelit at night. 

Bois de Boulogne Paris (16e) http://www.chalet-des-iles.com

Young chef Pascal Barbot is one of the rising stars of French cooking, which is why reservations at this tiny dining room with metallic walls and a handful of comfortably spaced tables are very difficult to obtain. Dishes typical of his imaginative cuisine have included a signature “ravioli” of avocado slices stuffed with crab, a small cake of mushrooms and foie gras, and a chocolate biscuit with milk sorbet. Closed Saturday, Sunday and Monday.

4 Rue Beethoven Paris (16e) Prix fixe menus, US$170 to US$260. http://www.astrancerestaurant.com/

Formerly known as Pavillon Ledoyen, one of the oldest restaurants in Paris occupies a pretty pavilion in the gardens of the Champs-Elysées. There are lovely views of the surrounding chestnut trees from the first-floor dining room, which has an elegant Directoire décor. The restaurant and its design were refreshed with the 2014 arrival of chef Yannick Alléno (formerly of hotel Le Meurice), whose cooking received three stars in the 2015 Michelin Guide. A superb talent, Alléno has dazzled diners with dishes such as tronçon of turbot roasted with bone marrow; and wagyu beef served with crispy raviolis, olives and green tomato jam. This restaurant is as perfect for an important business lunch as it is for a romantic dinner. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

Carré des Champs-Elysées 8 Avenue Dutuit Paris (8e) US$220. Prix-fixe Menu, $270 http://www.yannick-alleno.com/restaurant/le-pavillon-ledoyen/

For many years, La Villette, the old slaughterhouse district in the 19th arrondissement, was the place to go in Paris for really good meat. Ever since I found this place on the Left Bank, however, there is no longer any need to make a long journey for a memorable carnivorous meal. Owner William Bernet presides over this French version of a great steakhouse and its excellent wine list. There is a wonderful assortment of charcuterie from Laguiole in the Auvergne to start, and then the large, beautifully cooked steaks arrive. The best is the rib steak, which is big enough to feed two or three and comes with a side of excellent fries. This insider’s address doesn’t look like much, but it pulls a well-heeled crowd that often includes a well-known face or two, and the atmosphere is relaxed and friendly. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

8 Rue des Plantes Paris (14e) US$100

If you happen to be in Paris on a warm summer’s day, the first thing you should do that morning is to book a terrace table at this restaurant in a corner of the Palais Royal. Dining alfresco here is unforgettable, as restaurant patrons can stay in this lovely urban garden after it has been closed to the public. Soigné service and a chic crowd add to the pleasure of a meal here.

110 Galerie de Valois Paris (1e) http://www.restaurantdupalaisroyal.com

With a chic Left Bank address near the Rodin Museum, chef Alain Passard’s L'Arpège, a pear wood-paneled dining room with Lalique glass inserts, is one of the more controversial haute cuisine establishments in Paris. Some adore Passard’s minimalist style and his love of vegetables, most of which come from his own farms in the Sarthe and Brittany, while others find dishes such as onions baked in rock salt and garnished with Parmesan overpriced relative to their simplicity. A brilliant choice for vegetarians or adventurous diners, it’s likely to disappoint if you love the grandeur of traditional French haute cuisine. For my part, I respect Passard’s talent and like his food, especially at lunch, but find the prices a bit wilting. Don’t miss the sautéed chicken with shallots, onions and potato purée — it’s great comfort food at the top of the Gallic food chain.

84 Rue de Varenne Paris (7e) http://www.alain-passard.com

This wonderfully old-fashioned restaurant is one of my favorite places to dine in Paris, and I never leave town without having a meal here. The cozy dining room decorated with red velvet banquettes, smoky mirrors and 1950s French ceramics has a preserved-in-amber charm, the service is charming (most of the waiters have been here for years), and its clubby atmosphere derives from the fact that this is one of the most enduringly elegant beau-monde addresses in Paris. Jackets advised for gents—this place is very chic in a casual and very Parisian way.

27 Quai Voltaire Paris (7e)

Once a louche Montparnasse café frequented by writers and revolutionaries, today Le Dôme is one of the best seafood restaurants in Paris. The original art deco interior survives, with its stained-glass windows and cozy booths. This clubby restaurant is popular with French politicians and corporate brass. Service is precise and formal, and the catch of the day is one of the best in Paris, including excellent oysters, pan-roasted turbot with Hollandaise sauce, and excellent bouillabaisse. Finish up with some roasted figs and vanilla ice cream or maybe a cheese plate composed of fine cheeses from the Bras family (as in Michel Bras) in the Auvergne.

108 Boulevard Montparnasse Paris (14e) http://www.restaurant-ledome.com/

I love the food of southwestern France, which is the specialty of this discreet restaurant not far from the Gare de Lyon (it’s a great place for lunch or dinner before you hop a TGV to the south of France). Though I liked the dining room better before it was redecorated several years ago, they had the good sense to leave the beautiful wedding-cake moldings untouched, and it’s a quiet, comfortable place for a meal. Desserts aren’t especially memorable, but there is a superb collection of Armagnacs.

40 Rue Taine Paris (12e) http://www.autrougascon.fr

The three-star table of chef Eric Frechon is one of the best and most reliable top-of-the-heap restaurants in Paris. It formerly migrated between a beautiful oak-paneled dining room (winter-fall) and a glass-walled space overlooking the hotel’s lovely courtyard garden (spring-summer), but has recently moved into a new marble-floored dining room with a slightly bland décor by French decorator Pierre-Yves Rochon. Service is impeccable; it has one of the best wine lists in Paris; and Frechon, an amiable Norman, is a superb cook. His menu evolves constantly, but dishes not to miss include macaroni stuffed with black truffles, foie gras and artichokes; the poularde de Bresse in two services — the breasts in a sauce of vin jaune with asparagus, crayfish and girolle mushrooms, and the thighs with a truffled leek-and-potato bouillon — and any of the chocolate desserts.

Le Bristol 112 Rue Faubourg Saint Honoré Paris (8e) http://www.lebristolparis.com/#/restaurant-gastronomique

Old-fashioned bistros are rarer in Paris these days, especially ones that are conveniently located in the heart of the city. This relaxed and quietly chic spot just off the Place des Victoires was a favorite of Julia Child, and the excellent traditional cooking makes it one of mine as well, especially for dishes such as chicken liver terrine, and grilled turbot with Béarnaise sauce. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

1 Rue du Mail Paris (2e) US$60

Featuring a glamorous dove-gray décor and a ceiling glittering with 10,000 suspended pieces of cut crystal (the work of young French interior designer Patrick Jouin), the Paris restaurant of globe-trotting chef Alain Ducasse offers a grand slam experience of contemporary French haute cuisine, with some of the best service in the world and a remarkable wine list. Ducasse himself is not in the kitchen, but his lieutenant Romain Reder creates delicious dishes. A real pomp-and-circumstance address with an international clientele, it’s also ideal for a special-occasion meal or a long, leisurely lunch. Jacket required. Closed Saturday and Sunday.

Hôtel Plaza-Athénée 25 Avenue Montaigne Paris (8e) US$250, with fixed menus priced higher http://www.alain-ducasse.com/public_us/plaza_athenee/fr_atmosphere.htm

Founded in 1903 by the Austrian pastry chef Antoine Rumpelmayer, this elegant tearoom is famous for its lusciously thick hot chocolate and Mont Blanc pastries. These rich meringues, topped with spiced chestnut cream, are a delightful treat after a walk around the Tuileries Garden across the street. Leather armchairs at green marble tables and elegant wall murals create a genteel atmosphere, and you’ll spot many a grandmother here with her happy grandchildren. The lemon and strawberry tarts are delicious, too, and this is an excellent place for afternoon tea.

226 rue de Rivoli Paris (1e) http://www.angelina-paris.fr/fr/
SIMILAR REGIONS TO Worldwide //  Europe //  France //  Paris

Follow Us

SIGN UP FOR TRAVEL NEWS