Thirty years ago, an end-of-the-world solitude permeated the subtropical tip of the Baja Peninsula. Today, the 25-mile corridor between San José del Cabo and Cabo San Lucas is a scene of continuous hotel and condominium development. Golf has replaced marlin fishing as the premier sporting attraction, with the likes of Jack Nicklaus and Robert Trent Jones II having crafted championship links out of the desert landscape. If you are in search of laid-back and unspoiled Old Mexico, drive 90 minutes up the western coast from Los Cabos via Federal Highway 19 to Todos Santos. Home to a growing colony of Mexican and American expatriate artists, this traditional, gentle-paced agricultural town lies just inland from the Pacific Ocean at the base of the Sierra de la Laguna mountains. Clustered near its small historic plaza you will find many art galleries and boutiques tucked within whitewashed colonial buildings trimmed by red-tile roofs and bougainvillea.