Two decades ago, the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia (FARC) controlled a swath of jungle the size of Switzerland, and the group’s brazen criminal activities were notorious around the world. But since then, Colombia has come to enjoy a measure of safety unseen in previous decades. Its mountain-backed capital city, Bogotá, is well worth visiting for its excellent museums and historic neighborhoods such as La Candelaria and Usaquén. But the centerpiece of any first visit to Colombia should be the exquisite colonial city of Cartagena, still surrounded by the extensive walls and fortifications that were originally constructed to repel Caribbean pirates. Its wealthy residents built elaborate mansions and palaces, many of which have now been converted into atmospheric hotels and restaurants.

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