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Deck at Glitretind Restaurant - © Mark Maziarz courtesy of Glitretind Restaurant

Sundance Film Festival: Park City Restaurants

By Andrew Harper

The Harper Way | January 1, 2012

Stein Glitretind Restaurant, Stein Eriksen Lodge  

You may have better luck with restaurant tables than hotel rooms in Park City this week.  Should you be visiting for the Sundance Film Festival, I heartily recommend the three following restaurants, which I recently reviewed in the Hideaway Report as part of my Deer Valley coverage. -A.H.

Zoom

In addition to the Sundance Film Festival, Robert Redford has given Park City a delightful restaurant, Zoom, set within the atmospheric old Union Pacific station. Chef Roger Laws’ American Continental menu is casual, but seriously good. We let our lunchtime waitress talk us into a starter of grilled summer squash — not usually a pulse-quickener — with black pepper-sage risotto cakes and heirloom tomatoes. It was utterly delicious, all the elements combining to make a dish for the vegetarian annals. Afterward, the sandwich of pulled pork, given new purpose in life with a chipotle barbecue sauce, was every-bite gratifying, as was the zesty-not-sweet crisp coleslaw. Tel. (435) 649-9108.

Glitretind

Although I did not stay at the Stein Eriksen Lodge on my recent visit, I made a point of revisiting its charming Glitretind Restaurant, which has long been a Harper favorite. It remains supremely warm and congenial, with panoramic views, superb food and first-class service. Executive Chef Zane Holmquist presents an exceptionally imaginative menu. I particularly enjoyed an appetizer of seared sea scallops served with celery root purée. My delicious main course was the roasted poulet rouge chicken — a slightly smaller breed than the usual — that came with crisp skin and a flavorful molasses jus, plus sides of creamed corn and al dente farm vegetables. During the meal, I had a lively and fascinating discussion with the talented sommelier, Cara Schwindt, who oversees the superb 10,000-bottle cellar. Tel. (435) 645-6455.

Grappa

Sometimes it’s hard to work up enthusiasm for yet another Italian restaurant. But Grappa proved to be a dynamic, multi-level space — extending to the outdoors when weather permits — with delicious food and engaging service. The best starter was a generous portion of perfectly cooked ravioli with an unusual and tasty filling of sweet corn and roasted pork, accented with fresh mint. A main course, veal Milanese, is often a limp, disheartening dish. On this occasion, however, it was wonderfully moist inside its crisp bread coating, and was complemented by a luscious Marsala jus, plus a hearty salad of potatoes, prosciutto and apples. Tel. (435) 645-0636.

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Andrew Harper Photo Andrew Harper is the editor of The Hideaway Report, a luxury travel newsletter that first appeared in 1979. He travels anonymously and pays his own expenses in pursuit of unique properties that offer unusually high levels of personal service. Hotels have no idea who he is, so he is treated exactly as you might be.

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